Sailing west from Finike to Bodrum, Jules Riegal finds a window to the ancient past and a touch of tranquillity amidst the party boats, gulets and holiday crowds of the summer season.

Beneath the Surface of Turkey’s Turquoise Coast

As I swam ashore with the stern line at Gemiler Adasi near Fethiye, spellbound by the submerged ruins of a fourth century church clearly visible through the turquoise water beneath me, the incongruous beat of a 90s pop hit gradually increased to a shocking volume to shatter the narrow bay’s tranquillity. A towering, three-masted, pirate-themed gulet loomed into view on its track close to the row of yachts, parallel moored stern-to the sloping rocky coast scattered with olive trees and the remains of ancient buildings. Behind the huge skeleton figurehead glowering from the bow, revellers were jumping up and down, amassed on both decks, as the party ship cruised slowly past the island’s archaeological treasures, said to include the original tomb of Saint Nicholas. As the gulet dropped anchor at the end of the line, music still booming, most of the people relaxing in the cockpits of their sailing and motorboats looked on with bemusement and a certain amount of resignation. After all, nobody said that July in the heart of the Turkish Riviera cruising region would be quiet.

This fragile line between peace and cacophony, and the surreal intermingling of high-season tourist shenanigans with Turkey’s tangible ancient world, were to be constant themes of our cruise westward along the country’s southern and southwest coasts last summer. The much-lauded yachting region on the cusp of Europe and Asia lived up to its reputation for beauty and charm, with a proliferation of idyllic bays, enclosed lagoons and rugged coves, and a backdrop of soaring pine-forested mountains and white-painted hillside towns with gleaming golden mosque domes. We sailed into undeveloped areas settled for millennia, as Mediterranean sailors and traders would have done thousands of years before, and discovered an abundance of Hellenistic, Roman, Medieval and Byzantine relics, from temples, castles and churches, to rock tombs and sarcophagi, to ruins of entire ancient cities at sites such as Kaleköy near Kekova and Knidos on the Datça Peninsula. At the marinas, towns and cities, the age-old stonework and rubble were often incorporated into new buildings or left standing in the middle of a car park or grass verge, all adding to the distinct ambience, enhanced by the undulating, atmospheric Call to Prayer emanating from the mosques, harking back to a bygone era.

Sailing Turkey: Preparing in Luxury

The Gemiler Adasi anchorage, which so perfectly illustrated the contrasting aspects, was one of the first stops during five weeks’ sailing in Turkey on our 50-foot Jeanneau, Nimble Ape II. Just my husband, Chris, and I, the plan was to cross from Cyprus in late June, checking in at Finike, and then day sail heading west along the Turkish coast as far as Bodrum, before entering Greece at Rhodes in early August.

We spent a week preparing at our luxurious base, Karpaz Gate Marina, a Platinum standard marina resort located on the offbeat, beautiful Karpaz peninsula on the northwest coast of the island in the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus (TRNC). It has all the berthing, safety and technical services you could need – and so much more if you are in the mood for a Turkish hammam, a dip in the indoor pool and jacuzzi, a visit to the on-site Beach Club or a couple of nights at the boutique hotel. The exquisite tasting menu created by chef Onur Us at the marina restaurant set the bar high for the dining opportunities in Turkey, while the welcome and assistance from the marina staff is always above and beyond anything we have experienced in 20 years’ sailing in the UK, Mediterranean, France and eastern US.

The Leap to Turkey

Following a convenient check out with customs on-site at Karpaz Gate Marina, we departed on 23^rd June for the 200nm, 48-hour passage to Finike Marina. The fairly busy shipping lane required a sharp lookout and monitoring of AIS CPAs as we closed the Turkish coast, but the shakedown sail was completed without major issues. It felt strangely exotic and adventurous to alight at Finike, a port town of ancient Lycia, founded in the 5^th century BC and originally named Phoenix. Berthed on the immigration pontoon, we were met by recommended agent, Samet, from Finike Yachting Agency, who dealt expertly with our check in with Port Police and Passport Control. With the discharging of sewage (black water) into the waters of Turkey strictly forbidden, we were issued with our Blue Card which indicates your boat’s tank capacity and monitors the amount of wastewater deposited ashore. It must then be duly presented to staff at Turkey’s marinas following each pump out to avoid any risk of a fine.

While a little grimy and industrial within the immediate vicinity of the marina, Finike town has plenty of restaurants and cafes, ATMs and supermarkets for victualling. We enjoyed a sweltering, fly-bothered fish dinner in Neşeli Balık restaurant in the middle of a bustling backstreet. After a couple of days’ rest, our journey west began with a short sail to our first anchorage, off Andriake Beach. We were soon in the midst of the heaving tourist area following a two-mile motor to picturesque, but crowded, Gokkaya Limani off the island Ashil Adasi, with clear water and a large cave perfect for paddle boarding or kayaking. 

Sailing the next day between Kekova island and the mainland coast, we passed Kaleköy village clinging to the rock face, with its spectacular Byzantine castle overlooking the sunken ruins of the ancient city of Simena. There is a place to anchor and pontoons directly below the castle, but with limited space and manoeuvring gulets taking up most of it, it was easier to anchor in the landlocked lagoon Üçagiz Limani to the west. After a short dinghy ride to Kale, we joined the procession of tourists and selfie-takers clambering up the ancient stone steps, through the maze of tiny streets lined with stalls selling souvenirs, to the top of the castle. A stunning view of Lycian Turkey awaits, facing the Mediterranean and Kekova Island, with hillsides littered with olive and carob trees, rock tombs and sarcophagi, and the necropolis visible below. A lone sarcophagus partially submerged in a shallow bay was a poignant parting sight.

Sailing Turkey: Connected in Kaş

While sailing Turkey, we had so far stayed off internet and phone while underway to avoid exorbitant data charges with Turkey outside the EU, so took our first chance for some shore Wi-Fi, power and water at Kaş Marina, tucked around the headland, in an enclosed bay at the foot of imposing slopes. Kaş town is busy and touristy, its rich history in evidence all around, tombs entrenched with car parks, paths and intersections built over and around them. It was also a chance to experience our first, not last, full Turkish platter breakfast at one of the marina restaurants, an array of bread, tomatoes, cucumbers, olives, cheese, eggs, yoghurt, honey that no one person could finish.

‘Anchor with stern lines ashore’ was the soon-to-be-familiar recommendation for our next anchorage at Yeşilköy Limani, near the village of Kalkan. After a thrilling sail heeled over on a flat sea, hitting 9 knots over the ground, we flew into the pleasant bay and managed our first stern-to procedure of the summer. Tasks are delegated according to our strengths, meaning I go to the bow to drop the anchor, then swim ashore with the lines, while Chris takes the pressurised job at the helm while monitoring depth.

After a 30nm downwind sail, along the Seven Capes stretch and past the sheer cliffs of Butterfly Valley, we then anchored with lines ashore in a small bay next to the ‘blue lagoon’ nature reserve of popular Ölüdeniz. As expected, music throbbed from the packed beach with paragliders raining down overhead from Mount Babadağ, but views of the low clouds rolling off the soaring Taurus Mountain range and a paddleboard excursion to the turtle and fish-filled lagoon more than compensated. 

It was just a short hop to Gemiler Island before we headed to Fethiye Marina for a night alongside, taking the opportunity to sample the atmospheric Old Town, with its maze of streets packed with stalls displaying a colourful array of dried fruit, baklava, pastries and spices, and to walk along the long, tripper boat-lined seafront.

Sailing Turkey’s Cruising Heart

We were now closing in on one of the most favoured sailing regions in Turkey – the large, enclosed gulf of Skopea Limani, seven miles southwest of Göcek, with its numerous sheltered anchorages, pine-ringed coves and bays with jetties and restaurants. After a night at anchor in the wide bay Innice Iskelesi, we motored deep into beautiful Boynuz Bükü, a sheltered bay with a restaurant, looking to squeeze in amongst numerous other yachts stern-to the shore. It was the one occasion of the summer when there was no space in our chosen anchorage, but nearby Round Bay offered an easy alternative in the middle off the beach. Moving on for a final night in Skopea, we settled at Seagull Bay, with its prominent seagull mosaic, where I learned a valuable lesson to ensure the stern line is attached to a firmly secure rock and not a random boulder which has tumbled from the shore.

Keen to escape the claustrophobia of the gulf, the sail 25nm southwest to Ekincik Limani offered the welcome feel of the wind in our hair as we sped along in 25 knots with a couple of reefs. We made an ad-hoc decision to berth in My Marina Yacht Club on the east side the bay, so the yacht would be secure while we ventured up the Dalyan River on a local tour boat to see the ancient city of Kaunos.

A vicious crosswind and tricky stern-to arrival was soon forgotten once we explored the marina, beautifully landscaped to assimilate into the surrounding pine-forested, steep cliffs. The Dalyan excursion stops first at the nearby caves before entering the natural delta habitat, passing Turtle or Iztuzu Beach, where the sea turtles come to breed. There is a chance to take an hour or more exploring the mysterious ruins of Kaunos with its Roman and Hellenistic excavated structures, before heading further up the river to view the fantastic Dalyan King Tombs, carved into the cliff. 

We tacked our way into wind to a quieter anchorage at small Gerbekse Cove, with Byzantine ruins ashore, and then on to lagoon-style Serçe Limani, by-passing Marmaris Limani with Rhodes in sight. Motoring between Greek island Simi and Turkey, we cruised northeast up the gulf of Hisarönü Körfezi, past rows of large motoryachts clustered along the coast close to Bencik, the narrowest part of the 50-mile long Datça Peninsula dividing Hisarönü from Gökova Körfezi. At the head of the gulf, the lush bay of Keci Buku is home to Marti Marina, a large, pricey marina, incorporating the ruins of a Byzantine Church in its layout, where we stopped for necessities and a wander to the small village of Orhaniye.

Unmissable Knidos

The ancient harbour of Knidos, at the tip of the peninsula, was a must-see on our wish list, and we approached with trepidation, expecting the bay to be packed. Although tight, we managed to squeeze in and anchor in the southeast corner, taking in the incredible sight of the city ruins scattered on the surrounding slopes. Founded by Greek settlers, Knidos was an important Dorian port city dating to 400 BC and is renowned for its statue of Aphrodite and association with the scientist Eudoxos. Today, it is still possible to stroll along the well-preserved city paths on the steep terraced hillsides and among the remains of the 8000-seat Hellenistic lower theatre, 4th century BC sundial and Byzantine-era churches. Sitting onboard or swimming in the turquoise water of the harbour, it is incredible to envisage the thriving city with its magnificent temples housing 70,000 people and the different maritime passengers and boats that have visited or sheltered here over the ages. 

After a night swinging around in unison with the other yachts, an escape to the quieter cruising grounds of southeast Gökova beckoned and we set out for dog leg bay, Buku Cati, sailing past a changed landscape of lower, gentler slopes, with more greenery and pine forests. Turning in by the aptly-named One Tree Isle (formally Two Tree apparently!), we finally claimed a bay for ourselves, stern-to, with no one else in sight and no distractions, apart from the ubiquitous biting flies.

We then sailed swiftly eastward up to the head of the gulf towards Sehir Adalari, a group of three islands, including Sedir Island or ‘Cleopatra Island’. Dropping anchor right in the middle of the bay in shallow water and a sandy bottom, the spot was idyllic but not as restful as anticipated when a roasting meltemi wind kicked in at 10pm, keeping us on anchor watch until the early hours. We went ashore the next day, paying the entrance fee to roam the ancient ruins of Cedrae. Cleopatra Beach on the west of the island, where Mark Anthony is said to have transported the fine white sand from Africa for his sweetheart, attracts tripper boat loads of people, who are denied access to the special sand but can wade into the water and enjoy spectacular views of the Kiran mountain range.

Sailing Turkey: Windy Bodrum

Setting off for Bodrum in light winds, we were soon rapidly reefing with unpredictable gusts off the towering cliffs on the north side of the gulf. The sea cut up even more in the approach to the west of Karaada Island off the Bodrum coast as we alternated at the helm, negotiating the choppy, white-crested waves, spray flying over the bow. Beating into Force 7 winds, with gusts up to 35 knots, we were salt encrusted and ready for respite, so motored into sea and wind for the last five miles and settled thankfully at anchor off Bodrum Castle. 

Woken at 5am by a particularly loud and elaborate Call to Prayer, we manoeuvred into a berth among the superyachts in Bodrum Marina the next morning and took a couple of days to experience the historical, bohemian, mythical old Halicarnassus city, located at the confluence of the Aegean and Mediterranean oceans. A visit to Bodrum Castle, which houses the Museum of Underwater Archaeology, will leave you reeling with its array of amphora, ingots and terracotta oil lamps from shipwrecks of all eras and overwhelmed with information – and probably too tired to visit the Mausoleum, one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World.

With our time sailing Turkey nearing the end, we sailed to the ancient capital Datça, where our appointed laconic Seher Tour representative located our translog and crew list online. All we had to do was send a video of the boat at anchor in the bay and message him the Registry and RYA Certificate of Competence. A quick visit to the Port Police for a passport stamp and we were cleared to leave Turkey. Checking in to Greece is not quite so straight forward, so we were well prepared for the afternoon of cycling back and forth to Port Police, customs and immigration in the correct order at Rhodes. The key is to bring printed evidence of everything for stamping – online payment of the TEPAI cruising tax for the relevant months, crew list and transit log – and be prepared to hand over more money to the Greek officials. The seven-week Greece leg of our tour had begun, but that is another story, mainly of battling the Meltemi.

We left Turkey with positive emotions of a memorable sailing experience during which we fully appreciated the privilege of arriving by sea to see the same sight as those arriving thousands of years before – more heightened for us when compared to sailing in Greece. Admittedly, our abiding thoughts were of regret in not choosing a quieter time of year and to imagine enjoying the popular hot-spots without the inundation of laden tripper boats, local craft and international yachts. However, though in peak holiday season, there was always space at the marinas when booked ahead. With a bit of effort, we did find those opportunities to settle at anchor alone or with two or three other yachts nearby, and fully immerse ourselves in the history and atmosphere along this unique Lycian route of antiquity, basking in the spectacular landscape with only the sound of goats’ bells or the buzz of cicadas to break the spell. 

About Jules Riegal

Jules Riegal, a journalist, PR and content specialist, has been sailing with her husband, Chris Stanham, a Royal Navy veteran and qualified Yachtmaster Offshore, for 23 years on their own boat from various bases, including: Portland, UK; Solomons Island, Maryland USA; Corfu and North Cyprus. They have sailed extensively along England’s south and southwest coasts, as well as exploring Brittany, the Canary Islands, Bermuda and British Virgin Islands, and the Chesapeake Bay. With three crew, Jules completed a transatlantic in 2012, from Norfolk, Virginia, to Falmouth, UK, via Nova Scotia and Newfoundland, on Nimble Ape I, a 42DS Jeanneau. Jules and Chris now own 509 Jeanneau Nimble Ape II, based at Karpaz Gate Marina in North Cyprus. 

Sailing Turkey: Full list of Turkey Marinas and Anchorages

Finike to Bodrum…

Finike Marina – Check in to Turkey

Andriake

Gokkaya Limani

Üçagiz Limani

Kas Marina

Yeşilköy Limani

Ölüdeniz

Gemiler Adasi (see photo)

Fethiye Marina

[Skopea Limani:]

Innice Iskelesi

Round Bay

Seagull Bay

Ekincik Limani

MyMarina

Gerbeske Cove

Serçe Limani

Keci Buku

Marti Marina

Kuruca Buku

Datça

Knidos harbour

Mersincik

Buku Cati

Sehir Adalari (Cleopatra Island)

Gelibolu Buku

Bodrum Marina

Datça – Check out of Turkey

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