With two new marinas on Lefkas alone, and several developments planned for the surrounding islands, Tom Fletcher looks at the future of the ever-popular cruising area…

As the Ionian goes from strength to strength as a cruising area, it is only natural that it must change with the times. Many long-term visitors and residents wish that it would stay the same as it was when they first came and retain its off the beaten track charms. However, the volume of tourism and yachts are increasing, and the region must adapt to continue to offer an attractive cruising area.

New developments and new marinas should go ahead. They will irrevocably change the areas they are situated in, but they will also help conserve nearby locations by accommodating a huge volume of boats in a well-designed modern way. They will take some of the load off the smaller harbours and bays. One marina will have a large catchment, leaving the rest of the area to a more natural future.

That does not have to mean losing the spirit of the past Ionian though. The charm of quiet fishing harbours and quiet anchorages ought to be protected. But the increasing volume of tourism is a hard problem to solve and is being played out in numerous locations across the world. The only responsible thing to do is to embrace progress and to try to guide it in a positive, sensitive direction. It is pointless to hide one’s head in the past and hope that change will pass us by.

The major concern is the environment. Whilst we all like to believe that sailing is an ecologically friendly activity, this is not always the case. The sheer volume of boats has a marked effect on our surroundings, and on wildlife. Ecological damage to the area from the constant use of anchors, holding tanks emptying black water into the sea due to a lack of pump out stations, pollution from engines and from service industries… the list goes on.

Responsible sailors and charter companies, like Sail Ionian, now rely heavily on solar power, reducing the use of generators. Electric outboards are also a major step forward. We try to improve every year, organising beach clean-ups, providing eco-friendly detergents on board the yachts and pushing new developments in green technology. We have been trying for years to find a cost-effective filtration system for the yachts’ water tanks to reduce the purchase of bottled water!

For the local municipalities, providing new facilities is a key contribution to improve standards. Marinas with modern facilities have a raft of benefits to the environment and to the local population. Collection points for waste oils, proper sewage disposal and adherence to many EU standards benefit residents as well as visiting sailors. To maintain that these developments are not wanted and will destroy the charm of the area is churlish and short-sighted.

As visitors to the Ionian, we must understand that this region, and Greece as a whole, is only just coming out of a major recession. The priority must be on a sustainable, profitable future for the region. Developers need to be held to account in this respect. Infrastructure must be invested in by the government, so that the islands can cope with the volume of visitors they receive.

Recently completed projects on Lefkada include the marina in Vassiliki and a new yacht harbour in Nydri. Unfortunately, neither is operational yet due to legal paperwork – a constant plague in Greece. The 100-berth marina in Vassiliki, which includes a substantial breakwater and new ferry quay has been held up by legal wranglings for 2 or 3 years now. When it finally opens, it will provide a much-needed facility convenient for Lefkada, northern Kefalonia, and Ithaca. The impact on the town will be beneficial, with new business and employment to support the boats and business the ferry brings. 

Nydri’s smaller 70-berth harbour should also start operating soon and will hopefully open the town to sailors. Previously the main town quay has always been taken over by large day-trip boats, leaving little space for visiting yachts. It was also badly exposed to swell and winds from the east which the new breakwater will provide shelter from. 

The mainland has its share of planned developments too, with a 400-berth marina planned for the area just to the north of the existing harbour in Palairos. There is also a large luxury hotel planned close by, near the beach of Varko. How many of these planned developments will come to fruition remains to be seen, as funding and legislation can be unpredictable.

Grand plans in Mediterranean: New Ionian marinas

One of the most contentious of the proposed developments is in Vliho Bay, Sail Ionian’s home. For many years now, a large marina has been slated for the south end of the bay. Recently, progress seems to have been made, with visits by various ministers and the publication of a 500+ page report and various architect’s drawings. The study goes into considerable detail about the environmental impact on the local area.

This marina is planned to accommodate over 800 berths, making it far bigger than Lefkas’ marina, and has a budget of €47 million! Local opinion is divided, and it is a subject sparking lively debate. The plan includes substantial redevelopment of the sea front in the village of Vliho, and dredging of the south of the bay. It is probably the most ambitious project in the Ionian and will make a huge change to the local area – if it actually goes ahead.

The mayor of Lefkada, Thannasis Kavadas, was quoted as saying “The Marina in Vliho, which with a capacity of 848 berths will be the 3^rd largest marina in the country, in addition to the development it will bring to the wider area, is part of the great goal we have set to turn Lefkada into a leading destination and maritime centre tourism in the Ionian. We continue, on the path of major investments, for the progress and well-being of our country and its people, with truth and work for Lefkada”.

Administration buildings and a 12-meter-high control tower are planned for the Vliho seafront, a new fishing harbour, and the south of the bay will be home to a hotel, swimming pool, and villa-style residences, as well as various support services and a boat yard.

Whilst this brave vision is an example of what the future could hold for Lefkada, it would be nice to see some more effort made to retain the character of the bay, with its history of fishing and shipbuilding. The striking modern architecture certainly does not blend into the current character of Vliho. Though it will at least replace the dilapidated hulks and sunken wrecks that persist in the corners and seem to be immovable to the municipality, despite the bay’s protected status!

Ionian marinas: Controversial development

Probably the most controversial development though, is planned for Atherinou Bay on Meganisi. The local municipality have been pushing since 2015 for a 90-berth marina in the bay, which many regard as one of the most beautiful anchorages on the island. As you can imagine, it is hotly debated with passions running high for many long-term visitors and residents. Three floating pontoons are planned to project out into the bay, with a length of 60 – 75m, anchored to a 200m floating walkway along the shore, and associated service buildings.

The Mayor of Meganisi, Pavlos Daglas, said: “A project that will spectacularly upgrade both the region and Meganisi as a whole, while it will be a driver of development as it will upgrade the tourism product of our island, it will create prospects and incentives for new investments in our place and, by extension, new jobs.”

The artist’s impressions show a sleek modern design, with low-lying buildings designed to blend into the bay’s natural landscape. 

Atherinou has always been a busy bay, with a beach bar, taverna, shop and quayside. In my opinion, a well-designed small marina would be an advantage to the area and stop the repeated environmental damage that occurs every day from countless anchors. The marina facilities will further help to protect the environment and the neighbouring bays of Kapeli, Abeliekie and Elia will greatly benefit too.

To safeguard the future of the Ionian for everyone progress must be made. Developments like these must be allowed to go ahead. But they must be held to high standards, with the vision being one of protecting the region, not of profit. The area cannot continue with the anticipated volume of boats and prosper without changing.

Facilities are as crucial to the future of yachting as the green technological development of the boats themselves. A vision for a future of electric propulsion, green energy, 100% waste recycling, and a policy of ‘leave no trace’ must be the aim, and new marinas are essential for that ambition.

Tom Fletcher is a hugely experience skipper and instructor at Sail Ionian. For more information, visit the Sail Ionian Website.

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The post Changes to Sailing the Med: How Ionian Marinas are Developing appeared first on Sailing Today.

The hybrid technique of anchoring, rafting and docking all at the same time, while staying cool and calm, is possible… So, here’s a guide to becoming a professional med-moorer…!

Med Mooring Masterclass

Now, this is the one thing about Med sailing that can really give UK sailors the heebie-jeebies. Back in the UK, we’re used to horrible tides and hideous weather but Med mooring is something new. Put simply, it involves backing towards the quayside while dropping your anchor, securing the stern to the quay, and then tightening up on the anchor. Simple enough? Yes. But if you screw it up, I guarantee it will be in front of a full taverna of ‘experts’ critiquing your technique. 

Picture the scenario: the morning has been glassy calm and you’ve motored, soaked up some sun and perhaps anchored and gone for a swim. After a long lunch, a light breeze pipes up and you sail lazily towards your destination. No hurry, you’re on holiday. By 4pm, the wind is starting to howl and you realise it’s time to stop having fun and head for port. By 5pm, you approach port and the wind is screaming. Everyone else moored up hours ago and you spy one last, very narrow, quayside spot.  

You’re sunburned, tired from all the fresh air and gasping for a cold beer. Yet the horror of Med mooring in a screaming gale has to be dealt with. At this point, as you back tentatively towards a sea of boats, an Italian man in budgie smugglers (yes, it is always an Italian man, always in budgie smugglers) will head towards the bow of his boat and start bellowing instructions at you in a friendly but ultimately unhelpful manner. This is the point at which you lose the plot.  

So, what’s the key to making it easy? Well, it’s utterly facile to say, but you need to be prepared. There’s not much to it, but the amount of times I have seen a boat back in while the crew are still wrestling with fenders and scrambling with lines is surprising. So here is your very simple checklist. You need: 

• fenders already in place and set to the height of the toerail with a decent-sized fender on each stern quarter and also a fender hung horizontally by a line at each end at waterline on the transom  

• two lines set up on the stern cleats that are nicely coiled and ready to be deployed, and a designated crewmember to deal with them 

• someone at the bow on the anchor winch who has been briefed to drop the anchor when you give an agreed signal  

If you’re towing a dinghy, move this forwards towards the bow. Make sure the anchor is free on the roller and ready to drop. Now, sometimes you have no choice in this, but if there is a selection, then it pays to give it some thought; you may be drawn to the wide-open spaces, but this is not always a good thing. If there is a crosswind blowing at all, then the more space you have, the more chance there is you will be blown around as you try to secure the boat. If you select a nice narrow space, then once you are in it, you are effectively held in place by the yachts to either side while you sort out your lines and tighten up on the anchor.  

The type of yacht you moor alongside makes a difference, too. If it’s a high-sided superyacht it provides good shelter, but it can be intimidating to come alongside if there’s a crew aboard who might go spare if you scrape it. If a yacht is the same height as yours, you can guide yourself in with your hands if needs be. 

Dropping the anchor is obviously critical. Get this wrong and it doesn’t matter how well you park, you’ll have to do it again. The key is not to cross over someone else’s anchor chain as this leads to a whole world of misery the next day. If you’re lucky, the water will be clear enough that you can just look down and see where the anchors are. This, however, is rare. A visual inspection of the boats already on the dock and the direction in which their anchor chains are pointing should help. There is a bit of guesswork involved though. If there’s a crosswind, you’ll also have to make allowance for being blown down.  

Now you need to start backing in and dropping the chain. You want to be around three or four boat lengths out, although this is also dictated by depth; some Greek harbours can be ridiculously deep, so more chain is required. I have witnessed a yacht back gently in while dropping the anchor and chain into the dinghy that was tied at the bow. This did not work very well, although, remarkably, the boat was left in this state overnight. Avoid repeating this mistake. 

If it’s calm, you can back in gently and drop plenty of chain. It should be relatively hassle-free. It’s the wind that is the problem, as you need enough way on the boat to ensure you don’t get blown off course, but also to be moving sufficiently slowly to actually drop enough chain for the boat to hold. It’s therefore worth starting your anchor drop a bit further out and maintaining decent speed as you approach. Stay calm and don’t be afraid to bail out if you aren’t comfortable with how things are going.  

Obviously, by the time you reach the quay, you don’t need to be dropping the anchor any more. You should have briefed your crew already about this, but I have done this and still found them blithely lowering away while the stern lines are being secured. It’s annoying but not the end of the world as you have to tighten up on the chain anyway.  

At this point, all the action is at the stern, where you need to get your stern lines on. As often as not, there will be helping hands on the quayside. As soon as you have one or preferably both lines on, you are in a good place as, unless you are in extremely windy conditions, you can knock the boat gently ahead and keep it nice and straight by ‘steering’ it on the stern lines. This keeps the boat off the quay, and you can tighten up the anchor chain at your leisure. Make sure you don’t have any lines in the water before doing this! 

The best part of med mooring: Afterwards

Now feeling relaxed, you can tighten up your anchor chain and pray it doesn’t pull out. Once it is nice and tight, reverse hard on it and tighten up the stern lines so that you can actually step ashore. Once satisfied, head for a taverna and enjoy a cool beer. 

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The post Med Mooring Masterclass: How to Moor with Perfect Technique appeared first on Sailing Today.

Island hopping in the Tropics from one lush palm tree-lined beach to the next is a popular choice for those looking for a paradise sailing yacht charter holiday writes Sue Pelling…

French Polynesia, in the South (central) Pacific Ocean, with its vibrant blue lagoons and Robin Crusoe-style remote, pure white sandy beach-lined islands, is just one location that evokes a sailing yacht charter holiday paradise. From the picture-perfect lagoons of Bora Bora and beyond to the rugged beauty of the Marquesas Islands, there’s a wealth of natural wonders to explore by yacht.

But it’s not just French Polynesia that offers an abundance of charter opportunities. As the demand for charter holidays in far-flung places increases, more and more charter companies are now operating regularly in places like Thailand, the Seychelles, Maldives, Australia, and even Zanzibar or Madagascar in the Indian Ocean off the east coast of Africa.

To satisfy your hunger for pure indulgence, sailing companies such as Dream Yacht Worldwide, Nautilus Yachting, Seafarer, Moorings, and Sunsail, plus the huge range of yacht charter agents such as Click&Boat, borrowaboat.com, and Helm.yt, have plenty of choice exotic charter holidays, with many advertising seasonal offers.

Most of the equatorial tropics are in the trade wind zone, which means depending on what time you travel, you’ll probably experience good, steady sailing winds which can reach up to 30kts. It is therefore worth bearing this in mind before you book. Most charter companies will advise on weather conditions expected vs. sailing experience required.

Seafarer, and other companies like The Moorings have bases in Thailand and the Seychelles, but if you are contemplating Australasia, Cumberland Charter Yachts that specialises in charter holidays in that region, is worth considering.

Other companies that cover the Whitsunday Islands include Sunsail, or Nautilus Yachting which is one of the UK’s leading independent yacht charter agencies with over 30 years of experience.

The Seychelles, in the Indian Ocean is good year-round charter holiday destination with the islands of Praslin, Mahe and La Digue offering a range of paradise exploration opportunities.

Nautilus Yachting’s Seychelles option offers two choices of week-long itineraries covering the period November to April with northwest winds, and May to October with southeast winds (the two distinct seasons).

Both charters start from its base on the island of Praslin, and have a good selection of multihull charter yachts on offer including Bali, Fountaine Pajot, and Lagoons up to 52ft.

Nautilus Yachting’s other Tropical regions include Thailand, and Tahiti (French Polynesia) which are hugely popular. This company, which always has a consistent uptake of bookings for charter in the Tropics, was keen to share news of its current special offers for 2024 at some of its destinations including up to 15% off Tahiti, up to 30% off Thailand, and up to 30% off the Seychelles.

Despite its name, Med Sailing Holidays doesn’t just cover the Mediterranean, it has a selection of tropical options too including Bora Bora in French Polynesia, Thailand and The Whitsunday Islands, so it’s worth taking a look at the company’s simple-to-navigate website. 

If you are thinking of a charter slightly ‘off the beaten track’ in the Indian Ocean for example in places like of Zanzibar, Mozambique, Madagascar, or Mauritius, then East Africa Yacht Charters has a good selection of yachts and holiday packages with a choice of different types of charter.

When researching ideas for your dream holiday you’ll find it pays to be flexible particularly if you are not restricted to set dates because some companies also offer last minute deals. You will, however, need to consider requirements such as size and type of yacht, and special requirements including air conditioning.

Also, depending on who you are travelling with, such as family or groups (including youngsters or older members), keep in mind the length of flight and the ease/convenience of transfer to the holiday sailing base. 

By the cabin charter is a growing sector in the yacht charter business which is good news for solo travellers who are keen to enjoy a relaxing, exotic holiday with like-minded guests.

Dream Yacht Worldwide is a good choice because it understands its customers’ needs and has several destinations available with its Cabin Charter including Tahiti, the Seychelles, Thailand and the Bahamas.

To make your holiday booking process as simple as possible, Dream says: “All you need to do is book your flights, pack a bag and check in.” The yacht will be crewed by skipper and hostess, which means once onboard you can settle into your cabin, meet your fellow travellers for welcome drinks, sit back and relax, and enjoy a holiday of a lifetime in total paradise.

East Africa Yacht Charters also specialise in By the Cabin charter as well as its bareboat and crewed charter in this area. On the Zanzibar Cabin Cruise you’ll explore the more protected north, south or west coastlines with anchorages aplenty in the secluded coral and marine-rich waters.

If you are looking for bareboat charter, there is no shortage of yacht agency companies who can help narrow down the search. Click&Boat’s, simple and straightforward website does exactly ‘what it says on the tin’. Enter you preferred destination, click the type yacht you require, and other options such as skippered or bareboat, then take your pick.

Finally it’s worth mentioning that although flotilla holidays in the Tropics are nowhere near as popular as they are in the Mediterranean, they do exist. Nautilus Yachting for example (in conjunction with Seafarer Holidays) offer a flotilla route exploring the picture-perfect islands in the Andaman Sea lying to the south of Phuket.

The flotilla route is within the protected tidal waters, and the wind averages Force 3, which means you’ll have a good, exciting sail from the Nautilus base at Yacht Haven Marina in Phuket. Also, with just a 20-minute journey from Phuket International Airport to the marina, this is a good choice for families.

The post Why sailing yacht charter destinations are getting more and more exotic appeared first on Sailing Today.

We know what it’s like at the end of a sailing day… whether you’re wondering where to spend a balmy Brittany evening, or already racing an unknown competitor to get that last buoy, the top priority is finding the perfect, no fuss, peaceful anchorage. After all, once you’re done anchoring in Brittany, you can fully enjoy the picturesque surroundings, swimming in the turquoise waters, lazing on the boat, or heading ashore for supplies and to explore options for dinner! Here’s our guide to finding the top spots to end your sailing day in Brittany…

Top Ten Anchorages in Brittany, France  

Based on data from Navily.com.

Port Kerel 

Navily rating: 4.79/5 

Characteristics: Sand bed, 34% protection rating 

If it’s isolation you’re after, this may well be your spot. Situated on the southern side of Belle Ile en Mer, just off Quiberon, this spot offers good protection from most winds if not from a northerly swell. This is a deep anchorage with no access to mobile phone signal – perfect for a total disconnect. The small village of Bangor is within walking distance. 

Anse de Combrit 

Navily rating: 5/5  

Characteristics: Mud river mooring, 100% protection rating 

A picturesque mooring on the river Odet above Benodet. Not too much in terms of facilities but gained a very high score due to excellent protection and tranquillity while also being a (motorised) tender ride from Benodet. 

Anse de Saint-hernot 

Navily rating: 5/5 

Characteristics: sand bottom, 100% protection rating, beach access 

A charming mooring to the east of Douarnenez that won rave reviews thanks to a combination of excellent protection – particularly from prevailing SW winds – plus crystal clear waters. 

Anse de Morgat  

Navily rating: 5/5 

Characteristics: Mooring buoys available, Sand bed, 100% protection rating, Beach reachable by dinghy, max length 11.5m 

Looking for anchorages in Brittany with white sandy beaches? Tucked in to the south of Ushant (France), this peaceful anchorage earned rave reviews thanks to good access to a nice beach, plus shops at the small village of Morgat. 

Ile Longue  

Navily rating: 4.8/5 

Characteristics: Sand bed, 100% protection rating, Beach reachable by dinghy 

Lying in the heart of the Golfe du Morbihan and tucked to the east of Ile Longue this anchorage won rave reviews thanks to superb shelter, no mooring fees, wonderful tranquillity and good access to the nearby village of Larmor Baden. 

Anse du Fret 

Navily rating: 4.8/5 reviews 

Characteristics: Sand bed, 100% protection rating, mooring buoys available  

A good anchorage not far from Brest but offering a stark contrast to the big town. A peaceful anchorage in the heart of France’s Parc Naturel regional d’Armorique with a nice beach and access to a couple of restaurants ashore.  

Contact: +33298270197 

Mooring in Port Blanc 

Navily rating: 4.8/5 

Characteristics: Sand bed, 12% protection rating, mooring buoys available 

Looking for picturesque anchorages in Brittany? This is a stunning spot which also offers mooring buoys. Located just to the south of Treguier and offering a good day trip from the Channel Islands. The anchorage got very low protection rating as it is exposed to NW winds but the magnificent location evidently made up for this.  

Contact: VHF Ch9 or +332 96 92 89 11 

Anchoring in Plage de Brouel 

Navily rating: 4,75/5 

Characteristics: Sand/mud bottom, 100% protection rating, beach and water point accessible 

Situated in the heart of the Golfe du Morbihan, this anchorage garnered strong reviews thanks to a combination of good shelter and holding combined with access to the small island of Arz. There is a nice village on the island which is 10 minutes walk away. 

Anse de Pen-Hir 

Navily rating: 4.73/5 

Characteristics: sand bed, 88% protection rating, beach and snack bar accessible 

Hidden away south of Ushant, this is a very highly rated anchorage providing good protection and access to an excellent beach. The creperie located just above the beach was also a hit. 

Plage du Coz Pors 
Navily rating: 4.71/5  

Characteristics: Sand bottom, anchoring and mooring buoys, 65% protection rating, water point and snacks available 

Of the a anchorages in Brittany, this is on the larger side, facing onto a lovely white sand beach surrounded by rugged pink granite rocks. Located not far from Lannion this proved a hot with reviewers although it is prone to be roly poly if the swell is from the NW. There is a good selection of bars ashore in season and you can explore the island of Renote at leisure. There is a 12 Euro charge for a mooring buoy regardless of size of boat.  

Contact: +33296153800 

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The post Anchorages In Brittany: Guide to Finding Peaceful Anchoring Spots appeared first on Sailing Today.

Sailing west from Finike to Bodrum, Jules Riegal finds a window to the ancient past and a touch of tranquillity amidst the party boats, gulets and holiday crowds of the summer season.

Beneath the Surface of Turkey’s Turquoise Coast

As I swam ashore with the stern line at Gemiler Adasi near Fethiye, spellbound by the submerged ruins of a fourth century church clearly visible through the turquoise water beneath me, the incongruous beat of a 90s pop hit gradually increased to a shocking volume to shatter the narrow bay’s tranquillity. A towering, three-masted, pirate-themed gulet loomed into view on its track close to the row of yachts, parallel moored stern-to the sloping rocky coast scattered with olive trees and the remains of ancient buildings. Behind the huge skeleton figurehead glowering from the bow, revellers were jumping up and down, amassed on both decks, as the party ship cruised slowly past the island’s archaeological treasures, said to include the original tomb of Saint Nicholas. As the gulet dropped anchor at the end of the line, music still booming, most of the people relaxing in the cockpits of their sailing and motorboats looked on with bemusement and a certain amount of resignation. After all, nobody said that July in the heart of the Turkish Riviera cruising region would be quiet.

This fragile line between peace and cacophony, and the surreal intermingling of high-season tourist shenanigans with Turkey’s tangible ancient world, were to be constant themes of our cruise westward along the country’s southern and southwest coasts last summer. The much-lauded yachting region on the cusp of Europe and Asia lived up to its reputation for beauty and charm, with a proliferation of idyllic bays, enclosed lagoons and rugged coves, and a backdrop of soaring pine-forested mountains and white-painted hillside towns with gleaming golden mosque domes. We sailed into undeveloped areas settled for millennia, as Mediterranean sailors and traders would have done thousands of years before, and discovered an abundance of Hellenistic, Roman, Medieval and Byzantine relics, from temples, castles and churches, to rock tombs and sarcophagi, to ruins of entire ancient cities at sites such as Kaleköy near Kekova and Knidos on the Datça Peninsula. At the marinas, towns and cities, the age-old stonework and rubble were often incorporated into new buildings or left standing in the middle of a car park or grass verge, all adding to the distinct ambience, enhanced by the undulating, atmospheric Call to Prayer emanating from the mosques, harking back to a bygone era.

Sailing Turkey: Preparing in Luxury

The Gemiler Adasi anchorage, which so perfectly illustrated the contrasting aspects, was one of the first stops during five weeks’ sailing in Turkey on our 50-foot Jeanneau, Nimble Ape II. Just my husband, Chris, and I, the plan was to cross from Cyprus in late June, checking in at Finike, and then day sail heading west along the Turkish coast as far as Bodrum, before entering Greece at Rhodes in early August.

We spent a week preparing at our luxurious base, Karpaz Gate Marina, a Platinum standard marina resort located on the offbeat, beautiful Karpaz peninsula on the northwest coast of the island in the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus (TRNC). It has all the berthing, safety and technical services you could need – and so much more if you are in the mood for a Turkish hammam, a dip in the indoor pool and jacuzzi, a visit to the on-site Beach Club or a couple of nights at the boutique hotel. The exquisite tasting menu created by chef Onur Us at the marina restaurant set the bar high for the dining opportunities in Turkey, while the welcome and assistance from the marina staff is always above and beyond anything we have experienced in 20 years’ sailing in the UK, Mediterranean, France and eastern US.

The Leap to Turkey

Following a convenient check out with customs on-site at Karpaz Gate Marina, we departed on 23^rd June for the 200nm, 48-hour passage to Finike Marina. The fairly busy shipping lane required a sharp lookout and monitoring of AIS CPAs as we closed the Turkish coast, but the shakedown sail was completed without major issues. It felt strangely exotic and adventurous to alight at Finike, a port town of ancient Lycia, founded in the 5^th century BC and originally named Phoenix. Berthed on the immigration pontoon, we were met by recommended agent, Samet, from Finike Yachting Agency, who dealt expertly with our check in with Port Police and Passport Control. With the discharging of sewage (black water) into the waters of Turkey strictly forbidden, we were issued with our Blue Card which indicates your boat’s tank capacity and monitors the amount of wastewater deposited ashore. It must then be duly presented to staff at Turkey’s marinas following each pump out to avoid any risk of a fine.

While a little grimy and industrial within the immediate vicinity of the marina, Finike town has plenty of restaurants and cafes, ATMs and supermarkets for victualling. We enjoyed a sweltering, fly-bothered fish dinner in Neşeli Balık restaurant in the middle of a bustling backstreet. After a couple of days’ rest, our journey west began with a short sail to our first anchorage, off Andriake Beach. We were soon in the midst of the heaving tourist area following a two-mile motor to picturesque, but crowded, Gokkaya Limani off the island Ashil Adasi, with clear water and a large cave perfect for paddle boarding or kayaking. 

Sailing the next day between Kekova island and the mainland coast, we passed Kaleköy village clinging to the rock face, with its spectacular Byzantine castle overlooking the sunken ruins of the ancient city of Simena. There is a place to anchor and pontoons directly below the castle, but with limited space and manoeuvring gulets taking up most of it, it was easier to anchor in the landlocked lagoon Üçagiz Limani to the west. After a short dinghy ride to Kale, we joined the procession of tourists and selfie-takers clambering up the ancient stone steps, through the maze of tiny streets lined with stalls selling souvenirs, to the top of the castle. A stunning view of Lycian Turkey awaits, facing the Mediterranean and Kekova Island, with hillsides littered with olive and carob trees, rock tombs and sarcophagi, and the necropolis visible below. A lone sarcophagus partially submerged in a shallow bay was a poignant parting sight.

Sailing Turkey: Connected in Kaş

While sailing Turkey, we had so far stayed off internet and phone while underway to avoid exorbitant data charges with Turkey outside the EU, so took our first chance for some shore Wi-Fi, power and water at Kaş Marina, tucked around the headland, in an enclosed bay at the foot of imposing slopes. Kaş town is busy and touristy, its rich history in evidence all around, tombs entrenched with car parks, paths and intersections built over and around them. It was also a chance to experience our first, not last, full Turkish platter breakfast at one of the marina restaurants, an array of bread, tomatoes, cucumbers, olives, cheese, eggs, yoghurt, honey that no one person could finish.

‘Anchor with stern lines ashore’ was the soon-to-be-familiar recommendation for our next anchorage at Yeşilköy Limani, near the village of Kalkan. After a thrilling sail heeled over on a flat sea, hitting 9 knots over the ground, we flew into the pleasant bay and managed our first stern-to procedure of the summer. Tasks are delegated according to our strengths, meaning I go to the bow to drop the anchor, then swim ashore with the lines, while Chris takes the pressurised job at the helm while monitoring depth.

After a 30nm downwind sail, along the Seven Capes stretch and past the sheer cliffs of Butterfly Valley, we then anchored with lines ashore in a small bay next to the ‘blue lagoon’ nature reserve of popular Ölüdeniz. As expected, music throbbed from the packed beach with paragliders raining down overhead from Mount Babadağ, but views of the low clouds rolling off the soaring Taurus Mountain range and a paddleboard excursion to the turtle and fish-filled lagoon more than compensated. 

It was just a short hop to Gemiler Island before we headed to Fethiye Marina for a night alongside, taking the opportunity to sample the atmospheric Old Town, with its maze of streets packed with stalls displaying a colourful array of dried fruit, baklava, pastries and spices, and to walk along the long, tripper boat-lined seafront.

Sailing Turkey’s Cruising Heart

We were now closing in on one of the most favoured sailing regions in Turkey – the large, enclosed gulf of Skopea Limani, seven miles southwest of Göcek, with its numerous sheltered anchorages, pine-ringed coves and bays with jetties and restaurants. After a night at anchor in the wide bay Innice Iskelesi, we motored deep into beautiful Boynuz Bükü, a sheltered bay with a restaurant, looking to squeeze in amongst numerous other yachts stern-to the shore. It was the one occasion of the summer when there was no space in our chosen anchorage, but nearby Round Bay offered an easy alternative in the middle off the beach. Moving on for a final night in Skopea, we settled at Seagull Bay, with its prominent seagull mosaic, where I learned a valuable lesson to ensure the stern line is attached to a firmly secure rock and not a random boulder which has tumbled from the shore.

Keen to escape the claustrophobia of the gulf, the sail 25nm southwest to Ekincik Limani offered the welcome feel of the wind in our hair as we sped along in 25 knots with a couple of reefs. We made an ad-hoc decision to berth in My Marina Yacht Club on the east side the bay, so the yacht would be secure while we ventured up the Dalyan River on a local tour boat to see the ancient city of Kaunos.

A vicious crosswind and tricky stern-to arrival was soon forgotten once we explored the marina, beautifully landscaped to assimilate into the surrounding pine-forested, steep cliffs. The Dalyan excursion stops first at the nearby caves before entering the natural delta habitat, passing Turtle or Iztuzu Beach, where the sea turtles come to breed. There is a chance to take an hour or more exploring the mysterious ruins of Kaunos with its Roman and Hellenistic excavated structures, before heading further up the river to view the fantastic Dalyan King Tombs, carved into the cliff. 

We tacked our way into wind to a quieter anchorage at small Gerbekse Cove, with Byzantine ruins ashore, and then on to lagoon-style Serçe Limani, by-passing Marmaris Limani with Rhodes in sight. Motoring between Greek island Simi and Turkey, we cruised northeast up the gulf of Hisarönü Körfezi, past rows of large motoryachts clustered along the coast close to Bencik, the narrowest part of the 50-mile long Datça Peninsula dividing Hisarönü from Gökova Körfezi. At the head of the gulf, the lush bay of Keci Buku is home to Marti Marina, a large, pricey marina, incorporating the ruins of a Byzantine Church in its layout, where we stopped for necessities and a wander to the small village of Orhaniye.

Unmissable Knidos

The ancient harbour of Knidos, at the tip of the peninsula, was a must-see on our wish list, and we approached with trepidation, expecting the bay to be packed. Although tight, we managed to squeeze in and anchor in the southeast corner, taking in the incredible sight of the city ruins scattered on the surrounding slopes. Founded by Greek settlers, Knidos was an important Dorian port city dating to 400 BC and is renowned for its statue of Aphrodite and association with the scientist Eudoxos. Today, it is still possible to stroll along the well-preserved city paths on the steep terraced hillsides and among the remains of the 8000-seat Hellenistic lower theatre, 4th century BC sundial and Byzantine-era churches. Sitting onboard or swimming in the turquoise water of the harbour, it is incredible to envisage the thriving city with its magnificent temples housing 70,000 people and the different maritime passengers and boats that have visited or sheltered here over the ages. 

After a night swinging around in unison with the other yachts, an escape to the quieter cruising grounds of southeast Gökova beckoned and we set out for dog leg bay, Buku Cati, sailing past a changed landscape of lower, gentler slopes, with more greenery and pine forests. Turning in by the aptly-named One Tree Isle (formally Two Tree apparently!), we finally claimed a bay for ourselves, stern-to, with no one else in sight and no distractions, apart from the ubiquitous biting flies.

We then sailed swiftly eastward up to the head of the gulf towards Sehir Adalari, a group of three islands, including Sedir Island or ‘Cleopatra Island’. Dropping anchor right in the middle of the bay in shallow water and a sandy bottom, the spot was idyllic but not as restful as anticipated when a roasting meltemi wind kicked in at 10pm, keeping us on anchor watch until the early hours. We went ashore the next day, paying the entrance fee to roam the ancient ruins of Cedrae. Cleopatra Beach on the west of the island, where Mark Anthony is said to have transported the fine white sand from Africa for his sweetheart, attracts tripper boat loads of people, who are denied access to the special sand but can wade into the water and enjoy spectacular views of the Kiran mountain range.

Sailing Turkey: Windy Bodrum

Setting off for Bodrum in light winds, we were soon rapidly reefing with unpredictable gusts off the towering cliffs on the north side of the gulf. The sea cut up even more in the approach to the west of Karaada Island off the Bodrum coast as we alternated at the helm, negotiating the choppy, white-crested waves, spray flying over the bow. Beating into Force 7 winds, with gusts up to 35 knots, we were salt encrusted and ready for respite, so motored into sea and wind for the last five miles and settled thankfully at anchor off Bodrum Castle. 

Woken at 5am by a particularly loud and elaborate Call to Prayer, we manoeuvred into a berth among the superyachts in Bodrum Marina the next morning and took a couple of days to experience the historical, bohemian, mythical old Halicarnassus city, located at the confluence of the Aegean and Mediterranean oceans. A visit to Bodrum Castle, which houses the Museum of Underwater Archaeology, will leave you reeling with its array of amphora, ingots and terracotta oil lamps from shipwrecks of all eras and overwhelmed with information – and probably too tired to visit the Mausoleum, one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World.

With our time sailing Turkey nearing the end, we sailed to the ancient capital Datça, where our appointed laconic Seher Tour representative located our translog and crew list online. All we had to do was send a video of the boat at anchor in the bay and message him the Registry and RYA Certificate of Competence. A quick visit to the Port Police for a passport stamp and we were cleared to leave Turkey. Checking in to Greece is not quite so straight forward, so we were well prepared for the afternoon of cycling back and forth to Port Police, customs and immigration in the correct order at Rhodes. The key is to bring printed evidence of everything for stamping – online payment of the TEPAI cruising tax for the relevant months, crew list and transit log – and be prepared to hand over more money to the Greek officials. The seven-week Greece leg of our tour had begun, but that is another story, mainly of battling the Meltemi.

We left Turkey with positive emotions of a memorable sailing experience during which we fully appreciated the privilege of arriving by sea to see the same sight as those arriving thousands of years before – more heightened for us when compared to sailing in Greece. Admittedly, our abiding thoughts were of regret in not choosing a quieter time of year and to imagine enjoying the popular hot-spots without the inundation of laden tripper boats, local craft and international yachts. However, though in peak holiday season, there was always space at the marinas when booked ahead. With a bit of effort, we did find those opportunities to settle at anchor alone or with two or three other yachts nearby, and fully immerse ourselves in the history and atmosphere along this unique Lycian route of antiquity, basking in the spectacular landscape with only the sound of goats’ bells or the buzz of cicadas to break the spell. 

About Jules Riegal

Jules Riegal, a journalist, PR and content specialist, has been sailing with her husband, Chris Stanham, a Royal Navy veteran and qualified Yachtmaster Offshore, for 23 years on their own boat from various bases, including: Portland, UK; Solomons Island, Maryland USA; Corfu and North Cyprus. They have sailed extensively along England’s south and southwest coasts, as well as exploring Brittany, the Canary Islands, Bermuda and British Virgin Islands, and the Chesapeake Bay. With three crew, Jules completed a transatlantic in 2012, from Norfolk, Virginia, to Falmouth, UK, via Nova Scotia and Newfoundland, on Nimble Ape I, a 42DS Jeanneau. Jules and Chris now own 509 Jeanneau Nimble Ape II, based at Karpaz Gate Marina in North Cyprus. 

Sailing Turkey: Full list of Turkey Marinas and Anchorages

Finike to Bodrum…

Finike Marina – Check in to Turkey

Andriake

Gokkaya Limani

Üçagiz Limani

Kas Marina

Yeşilköy Limani

Ölüdeniz

Gemiler Adasi (see photo)

Fethiye Marina

[Skopea Limani:]

Innice Iskelesi

Round Bay

Seagull Bay

Ekincik Limani

MyMarina

Gerbeske Cove

Serçe Limani

Keci Buku

Marti Marina

Kuruca Buku

Datça

Knidos harbour

Mersincik

Buku Cati

Sehir Adalari (Cleopatra Island)

Gelibolu Buku

Bodrum Marina

Datça – Check out of Turkey

Read More:

• Maiden & Tabarly Put Women at Top: Ocean Globe Race Results
• Boat Test: C-Cat 48
• Peloponnese: Sailing In Peaceful Greece

The post Sailing Turkey: Guide to Finding a Tranquil Turquoise Coast appeared first on Sailing Today.

Portbail in Normandy is a good stopover for visitors making a trip across the channel. It also has a rich history as Brian Ferguson reveals.

Harbours and Ports in Normandy

There are quite a number of ports and harbours on the coast of the Cotentin Peninsula which are not well frequented by British visitors. Some by nature of their shallow draught and difficult access, like the many small ports between Barfleur and Cherbourg, or in the case of larger harbours such as Le Becquet or Regneville sur Mer, their distance from any towns with enticing shops and restaurants, renders them of little interest to visiting yachtsmen. 

Strange then, that on the west coast of the Cote des Iles, facing the Channel Island of Jersey there is a port town with an attractive commercial centre with numerous bars and restaurants, and a weekly market to rival any in the area. Stranger still that this well sheltered harbour is equipped with a modern 300 place marina with pontoon and swinging berths for visitors and with chandlery and boatyard services nearby. Strangest of all is that this marina receives, except for discerning local Channel Islanders, hardly any British visitors. 

Portbail, Normandy

Portbail probably suffers from the geography that places it a mere four miles south of its better known sister Carteret. The majority of visitors following a pre-planned cruising schedule have usually decided on their daily destinations en route for Brittany perhaps, and the next obvious stop off is generally Granville or St Malo. Why would you drop down the coast to another harbour which is within walking distance? Well there are quite a number of good reasons actually. 

Portbail has been an active port for a long time, the original name from it’s Roman origins as a trading centre was Grannona. Two thousand years ago Portbail’s extensive shallow inner harbour was producing salt for export as well as for preserving fish to feed its large Roman population. Later the town was an early centre of Christianity, the oldest known baptistery in Western Europe from the early fifth century, is preserved and on public display behind the Mairie. The beautiful eleventh century Eglise de Notre Dame stands on the harbour wall and contains a navigational leading light in its bell tower. The church is floodlit each evening and is a regular venue for concerts and art exhibitions. 

As a modern holiday resort Portbail developed in the late 19^th century with the coming of the railway. It was the second last stop on the route between Paris and Barneville Carteret. The Beau Monde of Parisien society favouring Carteret, with its large hotels and second homes overlooking the sea, while Portbail with its town centre a mile or so inshore was less popular and developed more as a working town with a larger year round population. 

The marina has recently benefited from a major redevelopment with many of the swinging moorings in the enclosed inner port being replaced by pontoons with electricity and water. The pontoon places dry out on all but neap tides and are not really suitable for modern fin keels, although long keels, bilge keels, lifting keels, motor cruisers and craft with beaching legs should have no issues. Laying to your own ground tackle is permitted for visitors in the extensive outer harbour, and though this is suitable only for boats able to take the ground, it is free of charge. 

The almost one million square metres of clean white sands of the inner harbour, just past the marina entrance, are one of Portbail’s most impressive features. At low water the whole area is left dry by the receding tide which then heats up during exposure to the summer sun. This heat is then transferred to the incoming sea with the next high tide providing a huge expanse of warm water ideal for swimming, canoeing or paddle boarding. The area is not subject to the strong currents which affect the coastal beaches, and with its moderate depth make it a safe area for any water born activities. The sailing school just outside the marina has sailing dinghies, wind surfers and stand up paddle boards for hire, while sand yachts are available on the flat sandy beach between Portbail and Saint George de la Riviere. 

Passage Planning

The entrance to Portbail is not as clearly evident from seaward as is Carteret to the north. First time visitors should time their approach to arrive from two hours before high tide to one hour after, although at spring tides an arrival close to high water will avoid the strong flow at the entrance. The entry is located between the large grey coloured hotel and a tall concrete water tower clearly visible for miles. Keeping a distance of about two kilometres from shore, there is a safe-water buoy at 49,18.4 N and 001,44.8 W which marks the beginning of the approach channel. Line up the white lighthouse with a red top with the church bell tower, then follow a bearing of 042 degrees between a series of port and starboard marks until you are level with a line of fixed perches to port, these are mounted on the edge of a stone built training wall. The deepest water lies close to the wall. At the end of the wall the channel then veers to starboard and the marina entrance is just to port beyond the end of stone and timber pier. Be watchful for boats leaving the marina as visibility is restricted at the entrance.   

Cruising Grounds

Portbail Faces onto the southern area of the Channel Islands with the charming group of small islands known as the Ecrehous being only eight miles distant, with Gorey on the Island of Jersey a further six.

During the 1960s and 70s a Jersey fisherman lived as a hermit on the Ecrehous for fourteen years in a fisherman’s hut with no heating and only rain water to drink. Apart from the occasional tins of food dropped off by visiting yachts and passing fishermen he lived on whatever he could scavenge from the sea. Incredibly upon returning to Jersey, the hermit, Alphonse Le Gastelois, went on to live to 98 years old. The port de Herel at Granville and the spectacularly lovely Isles Chausey are approximately equidistant thirty miles to the south. Visitors to the area usually make landfall from the UK at either Cherbourg or the Channel Islands. The newly formed Ports de la Manche, comprising all seventeen of the marinas from Dieppe to Granville offer discounts of up to 50% for visitors who hold UK membership of associated schemes. 

Portbail Run Ashore 

The charming old town of Portbail has a great deal to commend it, especially in the height of summer when it is not as busy as most of the other ports in the area. There is a small chandlery in the town centre with a limited stock of boat parts and accessories and fishing tackle. Around 800 metres out of town there is a boatyard with engineering and boat lifting facilities as well as an impressive variety of spares, electronics, rigging and service items. On the other side of the road you will find a very comprehensive Mr Bricolage store, a kind of French B & Q or Homebase.

For a small town you will find a surprising number of bars and restaurants. For a delicious meal of locally sourced ingredients in a perfect setting Les Treize Arches, or thirteen arches is at the end of the thirteen spans of the bridge connecting the town to the port, the restaurant is very popular locally and booking is advised. On the opposite corner the Rendevous des Pecheurs has an extensive outdoor terrace. Immediately beside the marina is the Repere Bar Restaurant with excellent sea views. The town centre is also well supplied with patisseries, boulangeries, butchers and a well stocked mini supermarket. Portbail’s weekly market is on a Tuesday from 8 in the morning until 1 in the afternoon and in the summer occupies the entire town centre. On a Thursday you could hop on the vintage 1950s tourist train to Carteret to explore their market. The train runs regularly in the summer season with a restored variety of rolling stock. 

Local berth holder

Freddy D’Aigrement has had a berth at Portbail for more than 25 years and whilst the fact that he only lives two miles away probably explains his choice of marina, he has never been tempted to move. Freddy is a producer of local oysters and has to work in accordance with the tides and the weather, This means that his leisure time can be erratic and departures at three or four in the morning are not unusual. This largely means that most of his sailing is done single-handed, not many friends look kindly on predawn trips of only one or two hours. He says that one of the best features of the port is its friendly family atmosphere, with everyone looking out for their neighbours.

Like hundreds of Frenchmen he began sailing in a plywood Musketeer, these along with the similar plywood Muscadet were responsible for introducing a whole generation to inexpensive cruiser racing.  In anticipation of retirement he recently traded up from his 1970 British Halmatic 880 to a Jeanneau Attalia 32 of newer vintage.              

Portbail Fact file

Bureau du Port,  La Caillourie 50580 Portbail. Tel: 0033 233 048348. 

Email, port-bail@ports-manche.fr  Tariffs per 24 hr for 32ft from 19euros. Places can be pre booked by phone or email. 

Char a Voile Portbail (Sand Yachts) Rue Roze, Portbail Plage 

Sailing School Cote des Isles,  5 La Caillourie Portbail. 

Chandleries

Portbail Nautique, 0033 233 041231 – Boat storage, repairs, engineering, electronics, spare parts. 

Portbail Plaisance – 0033 233 520897 – Small chandlery, clothing, large range of fishing and leisure equipment 

Portbail Restaurants

Aux Treize Arches (Thirteen Arches) 0033 233 048790, Au Rendezvous des Pecheurs 0033 233 048137, Le Cotentin 0033 233 048418. 

Fire and Ambulance

18 – Police 17, Coastguard Emergency – 0033 142841606. 

Read More:

• Normandy Marinas: A Guided Tour of Carteret
• Armel le Cleac’h Interview: Reflections on the Ultimate Challenge
• Tabarly Triumph: Ocean Globe Race Winner by Barry Pickthall

The post Marinas in Normandy, France: Portbail Sur Mer appeared first on Sailing Today.

This MDL Marina,  located in Holes Bay, Hamworthy in a delightful part of Poole Harbour, offers some of the best facilities in the area including 280-berth dry stack berths writes Sue Pelling.

Cobb’s Quay at a Glance

50°43.30’N 2°00.10’W

BERTHING FOR 1,130 VESSELS

Access is via two lifting bridges at all states of the tide

Visiting Poole

Poole Harbour, Dorset claims to be Europe’s largest natural harbour and is one of the most delightful, unspoilt havens in the country. As well as being home to an historic quayside, some of the most beautiful, clean beaches, and anchorages on the south coast, the harbour is also made up of many different habitats with mudflats and salt marshes, which makes it important ecologically for the birds and wildlife that live there.

Poole is also unquestionably one of the most popular cruising destinations on the south coast, or start points for venturing further afield with places like Studland Bay, and Swanage – part of the Jurassic Coast World Heritage Site – on its ‘doorstep’ to the south and west, and the Solent, and the Isle of Wight and Chichester Harbour to the east.

About Cobb’s Quay

Given its many fine attributes therefore, it is not surprising Poole is known as a hot spot for visitors and berth holders alike. In fact, if you’re looking for a rural, yet convenient location in which to berth your yacht long term, Poole Harbour’s MDL’s Cobb’s Quay, is a good one to consider.

This marina offers 850 berths for vessels up to 25m loa, plus 280 dry stack berths for boats up to 10m loa, and has all the facilities and services you would expect from MDL including a fuel station that stocks petrol, diesel and gas, top rated toilet and showers, and laundry room, a bar and restaurant, convenience store, and a chandlery. Also, if you are travelling to the marina by an electric vehicle, there are Tesla and Universal Type 2 charging facilities.

If you are looking for a base that offers boat maintenance, repair and servicing, Cobb’s Quay has it all including a 40-ton boat hoist and slipway, and plenty of local on-site marine engineering, and boat repair/restoration companies as well as sailmakers. There is also a host of local cafes, bars and restaurants including the Bankes Arms Country Inn, The Pig-on-the-beach, both in Studland on the Isle of Purbeck, or Rick Stein’s Sandbanks restaurant overlooking the harbour and Brownsea Island.

As well as enjoying the marina’s excellent facilities and services, visitor and berth holders can also enjoy the benefits MDL’s Otium membership scheme. This rewards-based loyalty scheme is free to join with points generated for every MDL service purchase including fuel, berthing fees, and boatyard services. Points (£1 spend is equal to one point) can then be redeemed using MDL services, and the services of MDL’s specially selected partners.

Passage planning

The entrance to Poole Harbour is straightforward and well-marked by lit buoys. It is,  however, a busy harbour with commercial traffic such as fishing boats, the cross-channel ferry service to Cherbourg, and the Condor Catamaran service that runs to the Channel Islands. In the height of the summer season, it’s also buzzing with pleasure craft, so you need to keep a constant look out, and ideally check the shipping movements and plan your entry. If you are a visitor, it is also advisable to call the marina prior to arrival on VHF Ch80 or 01202 674299 to check berthing availability particularly at the height of the season. The marina staff will also advise on berth location.

The Swash Channel is the main entry from Poole Bar buoy or, to save time if approaching from the east you can take the shallower East Looe Channel route. Continue up-harbour via the North Channel or Middle Ship Channel. Cobb’s Quay Marina is about a mile up river from Poole Town Quay, on the west side of Holes Bay. Once you have passed Poole Quay you need to transit the first of two lifting bridges (Poole Town Bridge), then the Twin Sails Bridge slightly further up river. There are regular scheduled lifting times, but for more information you can contact the bridge operator on VHF Ch12 using the call sign ‘Bridge Control’. Once clear of the bridges, follow the buoyed channel to the marina.

Cruising ground

Poole Harbour is one of the most convenient places along the south coast in which to base your yacht, use as a starting location for a cruise further afield, or a holiday destination. The harbour and surrounding areas are wonderful places to explore, with award winning beaches such as Sandbank just across the bay. The National Trust-owned Brownsea Island in the middle of the harbour with its fury inhabitant such as red squirrel and sika deer, is well worth a visit too.

The World Heritage Site Jurassic Coast stretches from Studland Bay to Exmouth, Devon over about 96 miles. The bit from Studland to Lulworth Cove  – on the Isle of Purbeck (or Purbeck Peninsular), is a delightful place for cruising because it is dotted with anchorages like Worbarrow Bay, and the sheltered waters of Portland Harbour (approximately 28nm).

With easy access to the Solent, it doesn’t take long to venture across to the Isle of Wight either Cowes (approximately 28nm) is a popular sailors’ haunt with plenty of restaurants and pubs to suit all tastes, but beware the summer season gets extremely busy there, particularly during the annual Round the Island Race and Cowes Week. Osborne Bay, just to the east of the River Medina, is a great place to drop anchor for lunch and a have a swim. 

Slightly closer in the Western Approaches is the delightful town of Yarmouth (approximately 19nm), which has a marina and well worth a visit. It’s a great place for dining out with plenty of pubs and restaurants, including the Terrace – a waterside restaurant that overlooks the Solent. Or if you stick to the mainland, there’s other holiday favourites such as Lymington (21nm), and Beaulieu River, the entrance of which is 25nm from Poole.

Useful Info

Fuel berth: Diesel, petrol, gas

Boatyard services including lift in/out: On site

MDL Marina storage: +44(0)1202 674299

Sailmaker: Southern Sails & Covers: +44(0)7854 597948

Yacht broker: Blue Lagoon Marine +44(0)1202 081700

Charter/ownership: flexisail.com

Sailing school: poolesailing.co.uk 

Places to Eat and Drink

Cobbs Bar & Restaurant +44(0)1202 673690

Bankes Arms +44(0)1929 450225

Harbour Heights +44(0)800 4840048

Italian Diva +44(0)1202 674319

The Pig on the beach +44(0)1929 450288

Poole Arms +44(0)1202 673450

Rick Stein, Sandbanks +44(0)1202 283000

Riggers Restaurant & Slipway Bar +44(0)8451 226999

Rockfish Poole +44(0)1202 836255

Shell Bay Seafood Restaurant +44(0)1929 450363

Read More:

• Win Sailing Charter in Greece for Two: GlobeSailor’s Competition
• South Coast and Green Tech Boat Show 
• Boat Test: C-Cat 48

The post Cobb’s Quay Marina appeared first on Sailing Today.

Here’s your chance to win an unforgettable sailing adventure for two in Greece, courtesy of GlobeSailor.

Are you dreaming of escaping to the Mediterranean, and longing to cruise through lovely warm waters? GlobeSailor is offering you the chance to win a catamaran charter in Greece this summer. It’s everything you’re looking for, without the price tag!

ENTER NOW FOR A CHANCE TO WIN

About the Charter

Enter now for the opportunity to embark on a captivating catamaran charter in Greece aboard the Lagoon 450 Catamaran, thanks to GlobeSailor – the leading yacht charter agency in Europe.

Imagine sailing with your chosen companion through the stunning Saronic Gulf, exploring the natural wonders of Greece’s iconic islands. Known as one of the most breathtaking regions of the Mediterranean, this is your perfect opportunity to discover the exquisite landscape under the radiant sun. Dive into the crystal-clear turquoise waters and savor delicious cuisine during your catamaran excursion in Greece.

GlobeSailor’s competition entry, for a dream charter in Greece, closes on May 12th. The winner will be announced via email on May 13th. Keep an eye on GlobeSailor’s Facebook and Instagram pages for updates!

Visit GlobeSailor’s website HERE.

Win Sailing Charter in Greece: What’s included?

Enjoy a week of sailing with GlobeSailor Yacht Charter in the enchanting Saronic Gulf aboard a comfortable catamaran, which includes:

1 double cabin for 2 with an ensuite bathroom

Cruise on a Lagoon 450 catamaran (maximum 8 people)

Departure/Arrival: Athens, Greece

️ Professional skipper and a hostess/cook

Half board service

Prize valued at €4,198 for 2 people

Win Sailing Charter… Competition Entry Closing Soon!

Entry for the competition ends 12th May. CLICK HERE FOR A CHANCE TO WIN

Read More:

• Tabarly Triumph: Ocean Globe Race Winner by Barry Pickthall
• Peloponnese: Sailing In Peaceful Greece
• Tom Cunliffe: What to do with no Berths in Town

The post Win Sailing Charter in Greece for Two: GlobeSailor’s Competition appeared first on Sailing Today.

Immerse Yourself in the Essence of Luxury Sailing with Silver Sail

A luxury escape to the tranquil waters of Croatia awaits with Silver Sail. Whether you chose to go bareboat, with the assistance of a skipper, or with crew, their fleet of meticulously crafted sailing yachts offers an unparalleled experience. Combining the charm of the Adriatic Sea with elegance and comfort, their team offer an indulgent voyage of adventure.

Discover Unforgettable Destinations

Sail through breathtaking Croatian destinations, from the picturesque beaches of Hvar, to the island of Vis, a hidden gem with an unspoilt sailing experience. Stop over in Dubrovnik, known as the “Pearl of the Adriatic”, and soak in the heritage and remarkable architecture. With this company, exploring the Dalmatian coast’s hidden coves and charming coastal villages is made simple. You’ll voyage through Croatia’s history and nature with ease, and be inspired to return for more.

Expertise and Excellence

Silver Sail values integrity and respect, priding themselves on their commitment to organisation and excellence. Their specialised and experienced crew members are passionate and knowledgeable, ensuring a seamless and safe adventure. Whether you’re a sightseeing sunbather or an experienced sailor who wants to take the wheel, this company is the ideal partner for Croatia to deliver excellent service and support you in creating an unforgettable sailing experience.

Your Dream Voyage Awaits

The post Silver Sail Croatia: A luxury sailing experience appeared first on Sailing Today.

Our resident charter skipper Tom Fletcher narrates an unusual charter that took him a long way off the traditional tourist trail – to Peloponnese.

Heading for the Peloponnese region

I often ask myself why sailing long distances is so enjoyable, usually when alone on my watch late at night. I think I ask it repeatedly because the answer is always different, like the journey itself. On stormy nights, when tired and stressed, my answers are vulgar. On calm, beautiful starlit evenings, the peace and joy of the journey itself is the answer. The good times always outweigh the bad though. The slow speed of travel measured out in pencil on the chart below calms me; there is nothing to do and no responsibility apart from continuing steadily to your destination. The journey becomes life.

So it was with great anticipation that I stepped aboard the shiny new Bavaria 46 ready to depart on a journey to circumnavigate the Peloponnese. We would sail south from Sail Ionian’s base on Lefkada, around the three southern peninsulas of the Greek mainland. Past tempestuous Cape Maleas, which scuppered Odysseus, continuing up the coast to Athens, where we would change crew for our second week. And from there the return, through the Corinth Canal, to the Ionian.

The adventurous plan was made possible by one of the company’s business partners, who had bought a boat through our Yacht Partnership Scheme. The new Bavaria yacht would be run by Sail Ionian as part of the charter fleet, bought through the company dealership. In addition to an income from the charter business, the new owner received six weeks’ free usage of their boat as part of the deal. Keen to see more of Greece, they had arranged for a longer two-week trip and asked for a skipper to accompany them. Happily, I had drawn the lucky straw.

I think it is always sensible to have a short first day to allow the crew to find their sea legs and familiarise themselves with each other and the yacht before starting with shifts and longer distances. For the crew, this was their first long distance sailing voyage and we all wanted to enjoy the adventure. After a full safety brief, we cast off and headed south to Vathi on Ithaca. It was late April, and the spring wind was fresh off the northwest of Ithaca, topping 20knots, allowing us to have a great afternoon sailing, practicing MOBs, reefing, and generally blowing the cobwebs away!

Sailing into Vathi, Ithaca’s capital, fjord-like entrance comparisons with Odysseus were on our lips. Though Odysseus’ most famous journey was coming back from Turkey to Ithaca, he must have sailed along our route east first, on the way to the Trojan Wars. Surprisingly, Homer never names the ship in the Iliad. Our yacht, ‘Tranquilizer’, raises few eyebrows as we tie up on Vathi’s main quay though, just another early season charter visitor. Only we know of our more adventurous plans! After a few drinks and a great dinner, I let the crew sleep in a little. Our first passage to Pylos is around 100nm and I want to arrive in the morning light. The wind is supposed to be a relaxed NW3 for most of the trip which will probably only give us 5 knots downwind on our SSE heading, so I’m working on an assumed 20-hour passage.

Southward bound to the Peloponnese

We start with our shifts as soon as we’re out of the harbour. Three-hour solo watches for the three crew, myself as skipper on the float so I can help when needed. I volunteer to cook for this first passage while everyone settles in, but I’m cheating anyway as it’s a big tray of pre-prepared lasagna to warm in the oven. With the tea flowing and the sails up, it’s hard for anyone to go below and rest, but it’s important to get into the shift routine as soon as possible.

The night passes smoothly, we furl the main at sunset, leaving just the big genoa for the solo crew watches to manage, and still maintain four and a half knots. It’s a clear night with the sparkling lights of the mainland to port and the faint flashing of the Strofades lighthouse keeping us company to starboard. 

The sun rises over the steep cliffs of the island of Sphacteria, guarding Navarino Bay, where the Spartans were cut off and surrounded after the Battle of Pylos in 425BC. Pylos is a pretty town with French architecture and a history littered with conflict. Probably the most famous battle, and the most recent, is that of Navarino in 1827. The last major naval battle to be fought with sailing ships resulted in the destruction of an Ottoman-Egyptian fleet by a combined British-French-Russian fleet commanded by Vice-Admiral Edward Codrington, who is commemorated in Pylos’ central Three Admirals Square. I was glad I had decided to time our entry with the daylight, as the neglected marina was filled with debris and old lazy lines awaiting an unsuspecting propellor! A theme that would continue with the marinas of the Peloponnese.

The high midday sun made the waters of Navarino Bay a bright azure blue. As we motored away from Pylos, I gazed into the water just behind the boat, watching the shafts of sunlight play in our wake. Something square and black swam across my vision and sank away from the hull of boat into the depths. Adrenaline suddenly pumping, I jumped up and knocked the throttle into neutral. I couldn’t figure out what it was, but it had fallen off Tranquilizer. As the boat slowed, I quickly decided I needed to check the rudder and sail drive. Engine off and adrift in the calm bay, I lowered myself down the ladder into the surprisingly cold water and pulled on a scuba mask. On first impression, I couldn’t see anything missing. Thankfully, prop, sail drive, keel and rudder were all still present! I was just about to swim forward of the keel to check the depth sounder and log when I noticed the sail drive gaiter was missing. This is a square of rubber with a hole that sits over the sail drive covering the gap in the hull – mercifully, insignificant enough to not delay our journey!

Rounding the first of Greece’s three Peloponnese ‘fingers’ shortly after gave us a great view of the castle of Methoni and its octagonal ‘Bourtzi’ that protected the harbour. The huge peninsular castle has been occupied for centuries but most of what you can see now is either Venetian or Ottoman, with the octagonal tower belonging to the latter. It marked the start of our second hundred-mile passage which would take us around Cape Maleas to Monemvasia, on the eastern Peloponnese.

A lonely cape

My main concern for this Peloponnese passage was the weather. We would be very exposed around the south of the Greek mainland and in trouble if any southerly storms whipped up. Cape Maleas has a very nasty reputation as the weather systems from the east and west of the Greek mainland converge around its steep cliffs. Ports of refuge are few and far between and involve lengthy detours into either the Gulf of Messina, or the Gulf of Laconia. Large cargo ships are common here, so we had our VHF on dual watch with Ch.13 for bridge-to-bridge communication. The wind in the south was forecast to be light, but the eastern side of the mainland had N4-5, so we expected to encounter some resistance as we rounded Maleas.

Our Greek Waters Pilot identified Elafonisos, a small Peloponnese island just before Cape Maleas, as having sheltered anchorages, so we aimed for the big bay on its southern coast in case we needed to delay rounding the Cape.

A calm night passed slowly, with Tranquilizer only managing 4 knots most of the time. Plenty of marine traffic to watch and strange chatter on Ch.13. As anyone who has listened will know, the late-night watchkeepers on large cargo vessels have strange ways of keeping themselves awake and amused in the small hours! We tried to catch the Greek shipping forecast but, with the crackle from the radio and the Greek accent, were not able to make out any news on the northerly we worried about around the Cape.

At dawn, we found ourselves close to Elafonisos so decided to anchor for breakfast and get a mobile signal to check the forecast. Sand dunes encircled a huge shallow bay with a sandy bottom, a lovely sunny anchorage, and a morning swim was just too tempting! The forecasts were still similar with a northerly force of 4 –5 expected on the eastern side of the cape. Our route to the next harbour in the Peloponnese, Monemvasia, was directly north so we ate a good breakfast and stowed our gear expecting an exciting 20-mile upwind leg.

We left the anchorage and the sunshine behind, with moody cloud above the dark, steep headland ahead. The pilot book had done nothing to calm my nerves, with Heikell telling stories of unpredictable bad weather. Our Greek crew member lightened the mood though, telling us it was traditional to show your bum to the monks at the monastery perched on the cliffs. A cautious couple of miles off the Cape, unfortunately we couldn’t see their reaction!

I was worried for a moment as we rounded the cape; the wind picked up gusting above 30 knots and the sea state deteriorated into a confused choppy mess. Thankfully, our reefed mainsail helped settle the boat while we motored into the wind. After half an hour or so, it started to settle, and the wind eased to just under 20 knots. We unfurled the genoa on a port tack and picked up speed, heading almost exactly northeast.

An hour later, the wind had veered to the northeast, allowing us to set a starboard tack bound directly for Monemvasia, an invigorating 15 miles away. Tranquilizer plowed through the waves at close to 8 knots with one reef in the main, bringing Monemvasia into sight sooner than expected.

Sailing in the Peloponnese region: Gibraltar of the East

The ‘Gibraltar of the East’, as it is known, is a spectacular island fortress founded in the 6^th century AD by the descendants of the Spartans, and was, during the Byzantine period, one of the most important cities in the eastern Mediterranean. Joined to the mainland by a narrow shingle causeway, the island’s walled town is a beautiful, car-free labyrinth of winding alleys and beautiful squares overlooking the sea. Above the squares, a steep path snakes its way up to the ruins of the Byzantine upper town. 

The marina, with its obligatory stray ropes floating in the water, was as neglected as Pylos. Only a mile away from the causeway, in the modern-day town of Yefira, we at least managed to find a fuel truck and a working tap to refill our water tanks. Alongside the breakwater wall, we decided to explore beautiful Monemvasia and spend the night there.

Departing the following morning, we hugged the shore to get the best view of the old walled town, then set sail headed northeast with 15 knots of northwesterly wind coming down the coast. The morning was bright but cloudy and we had a much shorter day sail to look forward to. We were ahead of schedule due to the straightforward passage around Maleas, and planned to overnight in Hydra and break the last leg to Athens in half. Skirting the Myrtoan Sea took us offshore, a great day sailing with a consistent breeze and Tranquilizer under full sail. 

The wind dropped as we neared Porto Heli, and we had to complete the last 10 miles motoring. I had never been to Hydra and peered ahead eagerly as we approached the harbour, keen to see the famous town. We had, however, forgotten it was May Day. Hydra was rammed! Water taxis and a ferry charged across the harbour entrance, whilst the main yacht quay on the breakwater was awash with fiberglass! I had never seen yachts moored stern-to in front of other yachts moored stern-to! There was a line of 10 or so boats tied to the quay, parked as normal with their anchors out. But in front of them, wedged into the gaps between the bows, and tied to their mid-ship cleats, was another line of 10 yachts with their anchors out. And, believe me or not, another rank in front of them! It was absolute chaos. I turned tail and ran!

Luckily, Mandraki Bay, a mile east, was a lot more relaxed, with plenty of space to long line from the rocks. A large hotel overlooked the bay, and those crazy water taxis happily picked us up from the yacht and whizzed us past the chaotic harbour to Hydra’s sea front. The car-free town is very pretty, with winding steep alleys, and buzzing cafes and tavernas alive with chic Athenian sailors enjoying the public holiday. The water taxi and the holiday mood may have resulted in one bottle too many at dinner, but we only had another 40 miles to Athens the next day, so didn’t mind a late start.

A refreshing 20 knots of north easterly across the Saronic quickly woke us up, and Tranquilizer leapt through the spray eager to make Athens early. The Saronic, and in particular the TSS off Athens dictates caution though. So many tankers ply the waters to the oil bunkers of Piraeus. Combined with the public holiday leisure traffic, we were kept very busy with the hand bearing compass avoiding racing yachts and commercial traffic alike! 

The Peloponnese to Madness in Athens

I had never been to Athens on a yacht before, and opted for Alimos marina, which I now know was a mistake (and that Flisvos is much more pleasant). Alimos is where most of the charter yachts are based and, as it was a public holiday weekend, it was absolute madness. The first big weekend of the Greek sailing season is not something enjoyable when you are looking for your berth in a huge unfamiliar marina! Thankfully, the wind was light, and we berthed in our spot without difficulty, bringing the first week’s adventure to a close.

Part 2, the return to the Ionian via the Corinth Canal, will feature in next month’s issue.

About the author:

Tom Fletcher is a Lefkas based charter skipper and RYA instructor who has worked for many years for Sail Ionian – during which time he has amassed a huge knowledge of the area.

sailionian.com

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