With two new marinas on Lefkas alone, and several developments planned for the surrounding islands, Tom Fletcher looks at the future of the ever-popular cruising area…

As the Ionian goes from strength to strength as a cruising area, it is only natural that it must change with the times. Many long-term visitors and residents wish that it would stay the same as it was when they first came and retain its off the beaten track charms. However, the volume of tourism and yachts are increasing, and the region must adapt to continue to offer an attractive cruising area.

New developments and new marinas should go ahead. They will irrevocably change the areas they are situated in, but they will also help conserve nearby locations by accommodating a huge volume of boats in a well-designed modern way. They will take some of the load off the smaller harbours and bays. One marina will have a large catchment, leaving the rest of the area to a more natural future.

That does not have to mean losing the spirit of the past Ionian though. The charm of quiet fishing harbours and quiet anchorages ought to be protected. But the increasing volume of tourism is a hard problem to solve and is being played out in numerous locations across the world. The only responsible thing to do is to embrace progress and to try to guide it in a positive, sensitive direction. It is pointless to hide one’s head in the past and hope that change will pass us by.

The major concern is the environment. Whilst we all like to believe that sailing is an ecologically friendly activity, this is not always the case. The sheer volume of boats has a marked effect on our surroundings, and on wildlife. Ecological damage to the area from the constant use of anchors, holding tanks emptying black water into the sea due to a lack of pump out stations, pollution from engines and from service industries… the list goes on.

Responsible sailors and charter companies, like Sail Ionian, now rely heavily on solar power, reducing the use of generators. Electric outboards are also a major step forward. We try to improve every year, organising beach clean-ups, providing eco-friendly detergents on board the yachts and pushing new developments in green technology. We have been trying for years to find a cost-effective filtration system for the yachts’ water tanks to reduce the purchase of bottled water!

For the local municipalities, providing new facilities is a key contribution to improve standards. Marinas with modern facilities have a raft of benefits to the environment and to the local population. Collection points for waste oils, proper sewage disposal and adherence to many EU standards benefit residents as well as visiting sailors. To maintain that these developments are not wanted and will destroy the charm of the area is churlish and short-sighted.

As visitors to the Ionian, we must understand that this region, and Greece as a whole, is only just coming out of a major recession. The priority must be on a sustainable, profitable future for the region. Developers need to be held to account in this respect. Infrastructure must be invested in by the government, so that the islands can cope with the volume of visitors they receive.

Recently completed projects on Lefkada include the marina in Vassiliki and a new yacht harbour in Nydri. Unfortunately, neither is operational yet due to legal paperwork – a constant plague in Greece. The 100-berth marina in Vassiliki, which includes a substantial breakwater and new ferry quay has been held up by legal wranglings for 2 or 3 years now. When it finally opens, it will provide a much-needed facility convenient for Lefkada, northern Kefalonia, and Ithaca. The impact on the town will be beneficial, with new business and employment to support the boats and business the ferry brings. 

Nydri’s smaller 70-berth harbour should also start operating soon and will hopefully open the town to sailors. Previously the main town quay has always been taken over by large day-trip boats, leaving little space for visiting yachts. It was also badly exposed to swell and winds from the east which the new breakwater will provide shelter from. 

The mainland has its share of planned developments too, with a 400-berth marina planned for the area just to the north of the existing harbour in Palairos. There is also a large luxury hotel planned close by, near the beach of Varko. How many of these planned developments will come to fruition remains to be seen, as funding and legislation can be unpredictable.

Grand plans in Mediterranean: New Ionian marinas

One of the most contentious of the proposed developments is in Vliho Bay, Sail Ionian’s home. For many years now, a large marina has been slated for the south end of the bay. Recently, progress seems to have been made, with visits by various ministers and the publication of a 500+ page report and various architect’s drawings. The study goes into considerable detail about the environmental impact on the local area.

This marina is planned to accommodate over 800 berths, making it far bigger than Lefkas’ marina, and has a budget of €47 million! Local opinion is divided, and it is a subject sparking lively debate. The plan includes substantial redevelopment of the sea front in the village of Vliho, and dredging of the south of the bay. It is probably the most ambitious project in the Ionian and will make a huge change to the local area – if it actually goes ahead.

The mayor of Lefkada, Thannasis Kavadas, was quoted as saying “The Marina in Vliho, which with a capacity of 848 berths will be the 3^rd largest marina in the country, in addition to the development it will bring to the wider area, is part of the great goal we have set to turn Lefkada into a leading destination and maritime centre tourism in the Ionian. We continue, on the path of major investments, for the progress and well-being of our country and its people, with truth and work for Lefkada”.

Administration buildings and a 12-meter-high control tower are planned for the Vliho seafront, a new fishing harbour, and the south of the bay will be home to a hotel, swimming pool, and villa-style residences, as well as various support services and a boat yard.

Whilst this brave vision is an example of what the future could hold for Lefkada, it would be nice to see some more effort made to retain the character of the bay, with its history of fishing and shipbuilding. The striking modern architecture certainly does not blend into the current character of Vliho. Though it will at least replace the dilapidated hulks and sunken wrecks that persist in the corners and seem to be immovable to the municipality, despite the bay’s protected status!

Ionian marinas: Controversial development

Probably the most controversial development though, is planned for Atherinou Bay on Meganisi. The local municipality have been pushing since 2015 for a 90-berth marina in the bay, which many regard as one of the most beautiful anchorages on the island. As you can imagine, it is hotly debated with passions running high for many long-term visitors and residents. Three floating pontoons are planned to project out into the bay, with a length of 60 – 75m, anchored to a 200m floating walkway along the shore, and associated service buildings.

The Mayor of Meganisi, Pavlos Daglas, said: “A project that will spectacularly upgrade both the region and Meganisi as a whole, while it will be a driver of development as it will upgrade the tourism product of our island, it will create prospects and incentives for new investments in our place and, by extension, new jobs.”

The artist’s impressions show a sleek modern design, with low-lying buildings designed to blend into the bay’s natural landscape. 

Atherinou has always been a busy bay, with a beach bar, taverna, shop and quayside. In my opinion, a well-designed small marina would be an advantage to the area and stop the repeated environmental damage that occurs every day from countless anchors. The marina facilities will further help to protect the environment and the neighbouring bays of Kapeli, Abeliekie and Elia will greatly benefit too.

To safeguard the future of the Ionian for everyone progress must be made. Developments like these must be allowed to go ahead. But they must be held to high standards, with the vision being one of protecting the region, not of profit. The area cannot continue with the anticipated volume of boats and prosper without changing.

Facilities are as crucial to the future of yachting as the green technological development of the boats themselves. A vision for a future of electric propulsion, green energy, 100% waste recycling, and a policy of ‘leave no trace’ must be the aim, and new marinas are essential for that ambition.

Tom Fletcher is a hugely experience skipper and instructor at Sail Ionian. For more information, visit the Sail Ionian Website.

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The post Changes to Sailing the Med: How Ionian Marinas are Developing appeared first on Sailing Today.

Sustainability and environmental responsibility at sea might slip when cruising along dreamy mediterranean coasts, but here’s a welcome guide to remind us, from Sustainable Sailing Greece

The Sustainable Sailing Greece Initiative

Greece has long been associated with sailing, and thousands flock every year to sail in the crystal clear waters, chartering boats or joining flotillas across the different island regions. The Ionian in particular has seen a huge increase in the number of boats available for charter over the past years, many drawn by the region’s lighter winds and the diversity of islands to explore.  

What few people realise is that this sailing hotspot also overlaps with ecologically significant areas, including the Zakynthos Marine Protected Area, and several marine Natura 2000 sites covering over 430,000 hectares.  And what is becoming apparent is that the huge growth in boat traffic is adding pressure on these fragile marine ecosystems and the coastal communities. 

Casual sailors, chartering a boat for a week or two are usually unaware of the specific environmental issues in the Ionian region they are sailing through, and until now there was limited information available on best practices to help them to avoid negative impacts they may inadvertently cause for example through poor anchoring, which destroys sea grass Posidonia meadows, or how to interact with marine fauna that they may encounter on their journey. 

To address this, a landmark project was launched on World Ocean Day last June with a start up grant from the Ionian Environment Foundation: Sustainable Sailing Greece, aiming to work with charter companies and local organisations to provide information for visiting sailors, helping them take positive action for protecting the beautiful and unique coastline and sea of Greece. The launch focused on the production of a new Sustainable Sailing Guide, in partnership with over twenty charter companies operating out of Lefkada and Corfu. 

The Guide’s success

Over a year in the making, the Guide worked with charter companies and had input from dozens of sailors who helped shape the content to be relevant for skippers and their crew chartering boats in Greece. It drew inspiration from the RYA’s GreenBlue and Sailors for the Sea resources for sustainable boating, and includes a wide range of resources produced by Greek organisations working on marine conservation. The Guide is now on over 400 boats and available online, providing practical and simple tips for sailors on how to avoid harming the beautiful marine environment when boating and how to ‘do your bit’ with responsible practices on board and on shore, such as how to avoid pollution, leave no trace, lowering speed, choosing sustainable fish at tavernas, and advice on mooring. It also contains easily accessible information on the Ionian marine fauna and flora, and for visitors who want to play a more active role with the protection of marine wildlife, there is also detailed guidance on where to report sightings of mammals such as sea turtles, monk seals and dolphins, and how to observe them without causing undue stress and disturbance. 

The main environmental issues the Guide is aiming to address is the degradation of marine biodiversity and habitat, especially Posidonia seagrass meadows. These are critical for mitigating the effects of climate change as they bind 35 times more CO² than forests on land – they really are the lungs of the Mediterranean. We float above these amazing worlds but then drop anchor, in many cases causing damage to the seagrass and coral areas that take decades to restore. The Guide offers some practical tips on how to look out for these areas and anchor (or long line) safely without causing damage – second nature for experienced Med sailors, but good reminders for those who are new to these waters.

The Sustainable Sailing Greece initiative also aligns with Greece’s commitment to promoting sustainable tourism, which was highlighted at an event hosted by the Greek National Tourism Organisation (GNTO) to promote the initiative last December in London.  As GNTO UK Director Eleni Skarveli noted:
It is very important for Greece and the sustainable growth of Greek tourism to support initiatives like the Sustainable Sailing Greece guide, included also within the SustainableGreece platform. VisitGreece is focusing on synergies that safeguard our seas and marine ecosystem so that we can all enjoy and proudly inherit them to the next generation. 

Interaction with companies and their clients over the course of last summer’s sailing season confirmed that there is great interest from all sides to do more to protect the seas. As readers of Sailing Today will have seen in previous editions, there are a large number of exciting initiatives in Greece that are showing what the future of sustainable sailing could look like. Some examples include Sail Ionian’s increased use of solar and electric power, and Sunsail’s installation of water purifiers on board, and the transition to completely electric outboard motors. In addition to their solar panels and water filter installation, Seafarer also organise voluntary beach clean-ups with their clients across the Ionian and other areas of Greece.

The ecological voyage continues

Plans for building on this momentum for the 2024 season are well underway, with increased focus on sharing practical information on how to minimise destruction of the seagrass meadows. Adding to the reading materials available, a short video on good anchoring and long line practice in Greece will be developed in Spring, sponsored by Sunsail and Seafarer. The Ionian Environment Foundation is also ‘on board’ for phase two, and Exec Director Simon Karythis notes:

At the Ionian Environment Foundation (IEF), we have always supported effective and impactful grassroots projects which provide practical solutions to the region’s most pressing environmental issues. As the recreational sailing sector has grown over the last two decades throughout the Ionian, it has undoubtedly put increasing pressure on the marine environment and coastal communities. The Sustainable Sailing Guide  provides essential information to help recreational sailors reduce their environmental impact, and its widespread adoption in the industry really emphasises the project’s success, which is why we are committed to continuing our support in 2024. 

So before you set sail across the Greek seas this summer, do have a look at the Guide and look out for more resources coming out in the coming months to help us all make sailing more sustainable!

Want to learn more?

For more information and to get stuck into sustainable sailing, download a copy of the Guide or learn about other local projects.

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The post Sustainable Sailing: How to Eco-Cruise in Greece appeared first on Sailing Today.

Sailing west from Finike to Bodrum, Jules Riegal finds a window to the ancient past and a touch of tranquillity amidst the party boats, gulets and holiday crowds of the summer season.

Beneath the Surface of Turkey’s Turquoise Coast

As I swam ashore with the stern line at Gemiler Adasi near Fethiye, spellbound by the submerged ruins of a fourth century church clearly visible through the turquoise water beneath me, the incongruous beat of a 90s pop hit gradually increased to a shocking volume to shatter the narrow bay’s tranquillity. A towering, three-masted, pirate-themed gulet loomed into view on its track close to the row of yachts, parallel moored stern-to the sloping rocky coast scattered with olive trees and the remains of ancient buildings. Behind the huge skeleton figurehead glowering from the bow, revellers were jumping up and down, amassed on both decks, as the party ship cruised slowly past the island’s archaeological treasures, said to include the original tomb of Saint Nicholas. As the gulet dropped anchor at the end of the line, music still booming, most of the people relaxing in the cockpits of their sailing and motorboats looked on with bemusement and a certain amount of resignation. After all, nobody said that July in the heart of the Turkish Riviera cruising region would be quiet.

This fragile line between peace and cacophony, and the surreal intermingling of high-season tourist shenanigans with Turkey’s tangible ancient world, were to be constant themes of our cruise westward along the country’s southern and southwest coasts last summer. The much-lauded yachting region on the cusp of Europe and Asia lived up to its reputation for beauty and charm, with a proliferation of idyllic bays, enclosed lagoons and rugged coves, and a backdrop of soaring pine-forested mountains and white-painted hillside towns with gleaming golden mosque domes. We sailed into undeveloped areas settled for millennia, as Mediterranean sailors and traders would have done thousands of years before, and discovered an abundance of Hellenistic, Roman, Medieval and Byzantine relics, from temples, castles and churches, to rock tombs and sarcophagi, to ruins of entire ancient cities at sites such as Kaleköy near Kekova and Knidos on the Datça Peninsula. At the marinas, towns and cities, the age-old stonework and rubble were often incorporated into new buildings or left standing in the middle of a car park or grass verge, all adding to the distinct ambience, enhanced by the undulating, atmospheric Call to Prayer emanating from the mosques, harking back to a bygone era.

Sailing Turkey: Preparing in Luxury

The Gemiler Adasi anchorage, which so perfectly illustrated the contrasting aspects, was one of the first stops during five weeks’ sailing in Turkey on our 50-foot Jeanneau, Nimble Ape II. Just my husband, Chris, and I, the plan was to cross from Cyprus in late June, checking in at Finike, and then day sail heading west along the Turkish coast as far as Bodrum, before entering Greece at Rhodes in early August.

We spent a week preparing at our luxurious base, Karpaz Gate Marina, a Platinum standard marina resort located on the offbeat, beautiful Karpaz peninsula on the northwest coast of the island in the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus (TRNC). It has all the berthing, safety and technical services you could need – and so much more if you are in the mood for a Turkish hammam, a dip in the indoor pool and jacuzzi, a visit to the on-site Beach Club or a couple of nights at the boutique hotel. The exquisite tasting menu created by chef Onur Us at the marina restaurant set the bar high for the dining opportunities in Turkey, while the welcome and assistance from the marina staff is always above and beyond anything we have experienced in 20 years’ sailing in the UK, Mediterranean, France and eastern US.

The Leap to Turkey

Following a convenient check out with customs on-site at Karpaz Gate Marina, we departed on 23^rd June for the 200nm, 48-hour passage to Finike Marina. The fairly busy shipping lane required a sharp lookout and monitoring of AIS CPAs as we closed the Turkish coast, but the shakedown sail was completed without major issues. It felt strangely exotic and adventurous to alight at Finike, a port town of ancient Lycia, founded in the 5^th century BC and originally named Phoenix. Berthed on the immigration pontoon, we were met by recommended agent, Samet, from Finike Yachting Agency, who dealt expertly with our check in with Port Police and Passport Control. With the discharging of sewage (black water) into the waters of Turkey strictly forbidden, we were issued with our Blue Card which indicates your boat’s tank capacity and monitors the amount of wastewater deposited ashore. It must then be duly presented to staff at Turkey’s marinas following each pump out to avoid any risk of a fine.

While a little grimy and industrial within the immediate vicinity of the marina, Finike town has plenty of restaurants and cafes, ATMs and supermarkets for victualling. We enjoyed a sweltering, fly-bothered fish dinner in Neşeli Balık restaurant in the middle of a bustling backstreet. After a couple of days’ rest, our journey west began with a short sail to our first anchorage, off Andriake Beach. We were soon in the midst of the heaving tourist area following a two-mile motor to picturesque, but crowded, Gokkaya Limani off the island Ashil Adasi, with clear water and a large cave perfect for paddle boarding or kayaking. 

Sailing the next day between Kekova island and the mainland coast, we passed Kaleköy village clinging to the rock face, with its spectacular Byzantine castle overlooking the sunken ruins of the ancient city of Simena. There is a place to anchor and pontoons directly below the castle, but with limited space and manoeuvring gulets taking up most of it, it was easier to anchor in the landlocked lagoon Üçagiz Limani to the west. After a short dinghy ride to Kale, we joined the procession of tourists and selfie-takers clambering up the ancient stone steps, through the maze of tiny streets lined with stalls selling souvenirs, to the top of the castle. A stunning view of Lycian Turkey awaits, facing the Mediterranean and Kekova Island, with hillsides littered with olive and carob trees, rock tombs and sarcophagi, and the necropolis visible below. A lone sarcophagus partially submerged in a shallow bay was a poignant parting sight.

Sailing Turkey: Connected in Kaş

While sailing Turkey, we had so far stayed off internet and phone while underway to avoid exorbitant data charges with Turkey outside the EU, so took our first chance for some shore Wi-Fi, power and water at Kaş Marina, tucked around the headland, in an enclosed bay at the foot of imposing slopes. Kaş town is busy and touristy, its rich history in evidence all around, tombs entrenched with car parks, paths and intersections built over and around them. It was also a chance to experience our first, not last, full Turkish platter breakfast at one of the marina restaurants, an array of bread, tomatoes, cucumbers, olives, cheese, eggs, yoghurt, honey that no one person could finish.

‘Anchor with stern lines ashore’ was the soon-to-be-familiar recommendation for our next anchorage at Yeşilköy Limani, near the village of Kalkan. After a thrilling sail heeled over on a flat sea, hitting 9 knots over the ground, we flew into the pleasant bay and managed our first stern-to procedure of the summer. Tasks are delegated according to our strengths, meaning I go to the bow to drop the anchor, then swim ashore with the lines, while Chris takes the pressurised job at the helm while monitoring depth.

After a 30nm downwind sail, along the Seven Capes stretch and past the sheer cliffs of Butterfly Valley, we then anchored with lines ashore in a small bay next to the ‘blue lagoon’ nature reserve of popular Ölüdeniz. As expected, music throbbed from the packed beach with paragliders raining down overhead from Mount Babadağ, but views of the low clouds rolling off the soaring Taurus Mountain range and a paddleboard excursion to the turtle and fish-filled lagoon more than compensated. 

It was just a short hop to Gemiler Island before we headed to Fethiye Marina for a night alongside, taking the opportunity to sample the atmospheric Old Town, with its maze of streets packed with stalls displaying a colourful array of dried fruit, baklava, pastries and spices, and to walk along the long, tripper boat-lined seafront.

Sailing Turkey’s Cruising Heart

We were now closing in on one of the most favoured sailing regions in Turkey – the large, enclosed gulf of Skopea Limani, seven miles southwest of Göcek, with its numerous sheltered anchorages, pine-ringed coves and bays with jetties and restaurants. After a night at anchor in the wide bay Innice Iskelesi, we motored deep into beautiful Boynuz Bükü, a sheltered bay with a restaurant, looking to squeeze in amongst numerous other yachts stern-to the shore. It was the one occasion of the summer when there was no space in our chosen anchorage, but nearby Round Bay offered an easy alternative in the middle off the beach. Moving on for a final night in Skopea, we settled at Seagull Bay, with its prominent seagull mosaic, where I learned a valuable lesson to ensure the stern line is attached to a firmly secure rock and not a random boulder which has tumbled from the shore.

Keen to escape the claustrophobia of the gulf, the sail 25nm southwest to Ekincik Limani offered the welcome feel of the wind in our hair as we sped along in 25 knots with a couple of reefs. We made an ad-hoc decision to berth in My Marina Yacht Club on the east side the bay, so the yacht would be secure while we ventured up the Dalyan River on a local tour boat to see the ancient city of Kaunos.

A vicious crosswind and tricky stern-to arrival was soon forgotten once we explored the marina, beautifully landscaped to assimilate into the surrounding pine-forested, steep cliffs. The Dalyan excursion stops first at the nearby caves before entering the natural delta habitat, passing Turtle or Iztuzu Beach, where the sea turtles come to breed. There is a chance to take an hour or more exploring the mysterious ruins of Kaunos with its Roman and Hellenistic excavated structures, before heading further up the river to view the fantastic Dalyan King Tombs, carved into the cliff. 

We tacked our way into wind to a quieter anchorage at small Gerbekse Cove, with Byzantine ruins ashore, and then on to lagoon-style Serçe Limani, by-passing Marmaris Limani with Rhodes in sight. Motoring between Greek island Simi and Turkey, we cruised northeast up the gulf of Hisarönü Körfezi, past rows of large motoryachts clustered along the coast close to Bencik, the narrowest part of the 50-mile long Datça Peninsula dividing Hisarönü from Gökova Körfezi. At the head of the gulf, the lush bay of Keci Buku is home to Marti Marina, a large, pricey marina, incorporating the ruins of a Byzantine Church in its layout, where we stopped for necessities and a wander to the small village of Orhaniye.

Unmissable Knidos

The ancient harbour of Knidos, at the tip of the peninsula, was a must-see on our wish list, and we approached with trepidation, expecting the bay to be packed. Although tight, we managed to squeeze in and anchor in the southeast corner, taking in the incredible sight of the city ruins scattered on the surrounding slopes. Founded by Greek settlers, Knidos was an important Dorian port city dating to 400 BC and is renowned for its statue of Aphrodite and association with the scientist Eudoxos. Today, it is still possible to stroll along the well-preserved city paths on the steep terraced hillsides and among the remains of the 8000-seat Hellenistic lower theatre, 4th century BC sundial and Byzantine-era churches. Sitting onboard or swimming in the turquoise water of the harbour, it is incredible to envisage the thriving city with its magnificent temples housing 70,000 people and the different maritime passengers and boats that have visited or sheltered here over the ages. 

After a night swinging around in unison with the other yachts, an escape to the quieter cruising grounds of southeast Gökova beckoned and we set out for dog leg bay, Buku Cati, sailing past a changed landscape of lower, gentler slopes, with more greenery and pine forests. Turning in by the aptly-named One Tree Isle (formally Two Tree apparently!), we finally claimed a bay for ourselves, stern-to, with no one else in sight and no distractions, apart from the ubiquitous biting flies.

We then sailed swiftly eastward up to the head of the gulf towards Sehir Adalari, a group of three islands, including Sedir Island or ‘Cleopatra Island’. Dropping anchor right in the middle of the bay in shallow water and a sandy bottom, the spot was idyllic but not as restful as anticipated when a roasting meltemi wind kicked in at 10pm, keeping us on anchor watch until the early hours. We went ashore the next day, paying the entrance fee to roam the ancient ruins of Cedrae. Cleopatra Beach on the west of the island, where Mark Anthony is said to have transported the fine white sand from Africa for his sweetheart, attracts tripper boat loads of people, who are denied access to the special sand but can wade into the water and enjoy spectacular views of the Kiran mountain range.

Sailing Turkey: Windy Bodrum

Setting off for Bodrum in light winds, we were soon rapidly reefing with unpredictable gusts off the towering cliffs on the north side of the gulf. The sea cut up even more in the approach to the west of Karaada Island off the Bodrum coast as we alternated at the helm, negotiating the choppy, white-crested waves, spray flying over the bow. Beating into Force 7 winds, with gusts up to 35 knots, we were salt encrusted and ready for respite, so motored into sea and wind for the last five miles and settled thankfully at anchor off Bodrum Castle. 

Woken at 5am by a particularly loud and elaborate Call to Prayer, we manoeuvred into a berth among the superyachts in Bodrum Marina the next morning and took a couple of days to experience the historical, bohemian, mythical old Halicarnassus city, located at the confluence of the Aegean and Mediterranean oceans. A visit to Bodrum Castle, which houses the Museum of Underwater Archaeology, will leave you reeling with its array of amphora, ingots and terracotta oil lamps from shipwrecks of all eras and overwhelmed with information – and probably too tired to visit the Mausoleum, one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World.

With our time sailing Turkey nearing the end, we sailed to the ancient capital Datça, where our appointed laconic Seher Tour representative located our translog and crew list online. All we had to do was send a video of the boat at anchor in the bay and message him the Registry and RYA Certificate of Competence. A quick visit to the Port Police for a passport stamp and we were cleared to leave Turkey. Checking in to Greece is not quite so straight forward, so we were well prepared for the afternoon of cycling back and forth to Port Police, customs and immigration in the correct order at Rhodes. The key is to bring printed evidence of everything for stamping – online payment of the TEPAI cruising tax for the relevant months, crew list and transit log – and be prepared to hand over more money to the Greek officials. The seven-week Greece leg of our tour had begun, but that is another story, mainly of battling the Meltemi.

We left Turkey with positive emotions of a memorable sailing experience during which we fully appreciated the privilege of arriving by sea to see the same sight as those arriving thousands of years before – more heightened for us when compared to sailing in Greece. Admittedly, our abiding thoughts were of regret in not choosing a quieter time of year and to imagine enjoying the popular hot-spots without the inundation of laden tripper boats, local craft and international yachts. However, though in peak holiday season, there was always space at the marinas when booked ahead. With a bit of effort, we did find those opportunities to settle at anchor alone or with two or three other yachts nearby, and fully immerse ourselves in the history and atmosphere along this unique Lycian route of antiquity, basking in the spectacular landscape with only the sound of goats’ bells or the buzz of cicadas to break the spell. 

About Jules Riegal

Jules Riegal, a journalist, PR and content specialist, has been sailing with her husband, Chris Stanham, a Royal Navy veteran and qualified Yachtmaster Offshore, for 23 years on their own boat from various bases, including: Portland, UK; Solomons Island, Maryland USA; Corfu and North Cyprus. They have sailed extensively along England’s south and southwest coasts, as well as exploring Brittany, the Canary Islands, Bermuda and British Virgin Islands, and the Chesapeake Bay. With three crew, Jules completed a transatlantic in 2012, from Norfolk, Virginia, to Falmouth, UK, via Nova Scotia and Newfoundland, on Nimble Ape I, a 42DS Jeanneau. Jules and Chris now own 509 Jeanneau Nimble Ape II, based at Karpaz Gate Marina in North Cyprus. 

Sailing Turkey: Full list of Turkey Marinas and Anchorages

Finike to Bodrum…

Finike Marina – Check in to Turkey

Andriake

Gokkaya Limani

Üçagiz Limani

Kas Marina

Yeşilköy Limani

Ölüdeniz

Gemiler Adasi (see photo)

Fethiye Marina

[Skopea Limani:]

Innice Iskelesi

Round Bay

Seagull Bay

Ekincik Limani

MyMarina

Gerbeske Cove

Serçe Limani

Keci Buku

Marti Marina

Kuruca Buku

Datça

Knidos harbour

Mersincik

Buku Cati

Sehir Adalari (Cleopatra Island)

Gelibolu Buku

Bodrum Marina

Datça – Check out of Turkey

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The post Sailing Turkey: Guide to Finding a Tranquil Turquoise Coast appeared first on Sailing Today.

Brian Ferguson takes us on a guided tour of his local marina in idyllic Normandy. 

About Carteret, Normandy: 49.3782° N, 1.7802° W

For more than 150 years the coastal resort of Carteret has been a magnet to tourists. In its heyday the beau monde of Paris and the discerning members of Edwardian British society flocked to its endless white sand beaches and clear blue sea warmed by the gulf stream. Today Carteret is popular with visitors from Europe and the UK and an especially favoured stopover for yachtsmen both French and British. Carteret’s position directly opposite the Channel Islands gives it a unique flavour among French ports, decidedly French, but closer to the British Isles even than Dover. The area’s close connection with the Channel Isles spans many centuries, regardless of wars, foreign occupation or dare we say it, more recently Brexit. There is even a common language between the two, the Normandie “Patois”  

Carteret’s recent €2.4m marina development has seen the addition of a further 370 pontoon berths, including 60 berths for visiting yachts  Some of the annual berths are, at the time of writing, still available. The falling sill, which used to be at the entrance of the old marina, has been repositioned towards the harbour entrance. This has left a large area of the port permanently flooded giving all tide access to dinghy sailors and rowers from the local coastal rowing club.  The second phase of the development has begun which will see a new marina office building incorporating extensive new sanitary and laundry facilities.  

There are many distractions in Carteret for the visiting yachtsman. The local restaurants cater for all tastes and pockets, from the Michelin stared Marine Hotel to excellent pizzerias, bars and bistros  such as L’Abri in the old sailing school building or Le Carteret near the Station of the Train Touristique. The Yacht Club next to the marina is open to visitors with toilets, showers and washing machines, It also has a bar and restaurant with an upstairs terrace with the best view in the town. However local opinion has it that the Kalakiki on the promenade towards the ferry terminal serves the best moules frites in the Manche, a full kilo of mussels per person for 14 euros. 

The coastal rowing club of Barneville Carteret hosts each year an open sea race between Jersey and Carteret. This is one of the most famous ocean rowing events in Europe, however the club is open on weekends to anyone who would like to try a spot of less competitive exercise. Dinghies, windsurfers and stand up paddle boards are also available to hire. A restored private railway runs in the summer between Carteret and Portbail using vintage engines and rolling stock. This is particularly popular on Portbail’s market day (Tuesday) There are supermarkets in Barneville and an excellent epicerie and wine cave in Carteret’s main street all of which will deliver to your boat. For something a little different you should try a visit to the Maison de Biscuit a few minutes by taxi, anyone familiar with the famous Gosselin boutique in St Vaast-la-Hougue will be seriously impressed by its bigger and more visually impressive west coast rival. 

Comprehensive engineering and repair services along with a large and well stocked chandlery are available at Carteret Marine, two minutes walk from the marina. 

Local Berth Holder

The author Brian Ferguson has lived in France since moving from the North of England in 2004: “I arrived in France with a 37 foot long keel Tayana, a yacht practically identical to a Hans Christian, with a draught of two metres and a displacement of eighteen tonnes. The plan was to buy a small house for the winter and cruise all summer. We bought a farm with thirty acres, and the rest as they say is history. 

“We downsized to a 24ft Cornish crabber in which we cruised the northern Brittany coast and recently, after forty years under sail succumbed to the dark side and bought an Aquastar 27 motor cruiser which we keep in Carteret. Our new cruising grounds are the extensive inland canal system of central Brittany, which at our present rate will occupy us for several years to come.”    

Passage Planning to Carteret

Most UK visitors arrive at Carteret after a stopover in the Channel Islands. This makes it much easier to plan your arrival to coincide with the local tides. The entry, with its falling sill, is open roughly two and a half hours each side of high water, depending on tidal coefficient. The port of Carteret is easily identified from seaward by its lighthouse on the cliffs above the town. Its entry is clearly marked by port and starboard lights, a white stone building at the end of a jetty to port, and a starboard mark at the end of the southerly retaining wall. The passage over the falling sill is clearly marked, the port side entry marker having a tide gauge attached.  

There is also a digital depth readout on a large panel beside the footpath to the left of the entrance. This shows the depth of water available at the entrance and is only illuminated when the port is open. Incoming boats have priority and all boats should pass in the centre, between the posts marking the sill.  

First time visitors, or those with a small auxiliary engines are advised to delay entry for at least 30 minutes after the initial opening of the sill, until the incoming tide begins to flow over the retaining walls each side of the entrance, thereby reducing the flow over the sill. It is also an idea to plan landfall a mile or so to the south of the port entry as at springs the northward current can run at 3 to 4 knts.   

Any obstructions from all directions will be well submerged by the time entry to Carteret is possible, but yachts arriving early will need to stand well off as the tidal range locally can be up to 12 metres.  

Cruising grounds and Channel Islands

Carteret is within easy reach of Jersey, with the port of Gorey only 14nm distant, and Guernsey and Alderney a day’s sail away. It is further south that the real jewel in the crown lies.

The Chausey Islands are an archipelago of small islands most of which are submerged at high water but at low tide provide an incredible playground of sandy beaches, shallow warm bathing pools and on the main island, restaurants and bars. Access is only by boat and there are no vehicles allowed on the main island. Bernard Moitessier described the Chausey as paradise, and he wasn’t wrong. 

On to the other side of the bay of Mont St Michael is St Malo with its fabulous walled city, faithfully rebuilt after the war. It’s an interesting fact that for its surface area St Malo has more eateries that any other town or city in Brittany. Just around the corner is the entrance to the Rance estuary with its picturesque marina at Plouer-sur-Rance and for those with a small enough draught there is the medieval walled city of Dinan with a newly rebuilt quayside marina with new pontoons and all facilities.   

Fact File

Port of Carteret 

Lat 49’22’08 Long 1’47’24. 

Tel 0033 (0) 233047084. 

portcarteret@ports-manche.fr 

Electricity and water on all pontoons. Diesel and petrol 24 hrs on pontoon F. 

Rates

Visitors from 19.29 euros low season to 27.57 euros for a 30 foot monohull.  

2,215 euros per year or 1551 euros for a pontoon with access by tender. 

Winter rates 193 euros per month.  

The Marina offers free wifi, weather reports, a boat hoist of up to 40t, dry boat storage and electric bicycle hire. 

Market days are, Thursday Carteret, Saturday Barneville and Tuesday at Portbail. 

Useful contacts

Carteret Marine – 0233 012001.  

Yacht club – 0233 526073.  

Pole Nautique (Watersports center) – 0233 931207.  

Jobourg Coastguard – 0233 521616.  

Pompiers (For all fire and medical emergencies) -18  

Medical advice helpline – 116117. 

Jersey coastguard – 01539 447705. 

Comptoir carteret – 0233 538107.  

Read More:

• Win Sailing Charter in Greece for Two: GlobeSailor’s Competition
• Armel le Cleac’h Interview: Reflections on the Ultimate Challenge
• Tabarly Triumph: Ocean Globe Race Winner by Barry Pickthall

The post Normandy Marinas: A Guided Tour of Carteret appeared first on Sailing Today.

Here’s your chance to win an unforgettable sailing adventure for two in Greece, courtesy of GlobeSailor.

Are you dreaming of escaping to the Mediterranean, and longing to cruise through lovely warm waters? GlobeSailor is offering you the chance to win a catamaran charter in Greece this summer. It’s everything you’re looking for, without the price tag!

ENTER NOW FOR A CHANCE TO WIN

About the Charter

Enter now for the opportunity to embark on a captivating catamaran charter in Greece aboard the Lagoon 450 Catamaran, thanks to GlobeSailor – the leading yacht charter agency in Europe.

Imagine sailing with your chosen companion through the stunning Saronic Gulf, exploring the natural wonders of Greece’s iconic islands. Known as one of the most breathtaking regions of the Mediterranean, this is your perfect opportunity to discover the exquisite landscape under the radiant sun. Dive into the crystal-clear turquoise waters and savor delicious cuisine during your catamaran excursion in Greece.

GlobeSailor’s competition entry, for a dream charter in Greece, closes on May 12th. The winner will be announced via email on May 13th. Keep an eye on GlobeSailor’s Facebook and Instagram pages for updates!

Visit GlobeSailor’s website HERE.

Win Sailing Charter in Greece: What’s included?

Enjoy a week of sailing with GlobeSailor Yacht Charter in the enchanting Saronic Gulf aboard a comfortable catamaran, which includes:

1 double cabin for 2 with an ensuite bathroom

Cruise on a Lagoon 450 catamaran (maximum 8 people)

Departure/Arrival: Athens, Greece

️ Professional skipper and a hostess/cook

Half board service

Prize valued at €4,198 for 2 people

Win Sailing Charter… Competition Entry Closing Soon!

Entry for the competition ends 12th May. CLICK HERE FOR A CHANCE TO WIN

Read More:

• Tabarly Triumph: Ocean Globe Race Winner by Barry Pickthall
• Peloponnese: Sailing In Peaceful Greece
• Tom Cunliffe: What to do with no Berths in Town

The post Win Sailing Charter in Greece for Two: GlobeSailor’s Competition appeared first on Sailing Today.

Dream Yacht’s ‘Dream Guarantee’ offers a new yacht ownership program, with 10% Income and an additional 1% for Lagoon catamarans.

The Dream Guarantee

Have you considered buying a yacht through a charter management program? You’ve probably noticed “guaranteed income” programs that offer a percentage of the yacht’s value as an annual income. Well, Dream Yacht’s ‘Dream Guarantee’ Ownership Program does exactly that and more. 

Here’s a new 2024 proven program from Dream Yacht that’s been hugely popular, letting you benefit from an impressive 10% annual income for up to 3.5 years, with an extra 1% income on Lagoon catamarans. 

About Dream Yacht’s New Ownership Program 

Dreaming of sailing on yachts around the world? This guaranteed income yacht charter management program will enable you to live this dream while generating an income to help offset the purchase price. This Ownership Program’s 10% rate is based on the full retail value of your yacht for the 36 to 42 months of the program, allowing you to benefit from a higher return in the initial years of the program and help offset the cost of current interest rates. 

Additional 1% for Lagoon Catamarans 

As a sister company of Lagoon under Group Beneteau – and as a celebration of their 40 successful years as a top luxury catamaran brand – Dream Yacht is now additionally able to offer an exclusive extension of 1% annual income, for select Lagoon catamaran models. 

What does this mean then? With Dream Yachts you can now own a Lagoon model, including the L40, L42 or L46, all with deliveries in 2024, and place your yacht in the Dream Guarantee Ownership Program with the additional 1% income for the duration of your program. And… importantly, you’ll still benefit from all of the standard program features, like all costs included, and up to 12 weeks of sailing from any Dream Yacht destination. 

How Does the Dream Guarantee Program Work? 

Once you have selected a yacht configured for charter from premium brands like Pajot, Lagoon, Beneteau, Bali, Fountaine and more, the yacht is placed in the program for charters. This program offers for all aspects of your yacht’s operations, marketing, maintenance, and finances to be managed by Dream Yachts at no cost to you, including insurance, berthing, and maintenance costs. As if this wasn’t enough, alongside this, you’ll receive a monthly guaranteed payment for the duration of the program.

Opening up endless sailing opportunities oceanwide, this program entitles you to sail yachts around the world, with over 40 bases and a wider range of yacht models than anyone else, for up to 12 weeks per year. 

This program also offers the flexibility you need. At the end of the 36-42 month program, you can choose to continue keeping your yacht within the Dream Yacht charter fleet, with an adjusted income on your yacht’s current value, or you may take advantage of Dream Yacht’s flexibility and transition your yacht into the Dream Performance program. 

Who is the Dream Guarantee Program for? 

Unlike you’d assume, the Dream Guarantee program is not exclusive to a select few. The innovation and evolution of their programs to make ownership more accessible, means that the privilege of yacht ownership moves from being a dream to a reality. 

There are a few different groups of people for which this program is well suited.

The Soon to Retire 

Planning to retire in 3-5 years? This new program allows you to sail up to 12 times a year while finishing your 9-5 career, with the knowledge that your boat is waiting for you when you’re ready to fully set sail. This program also offers you confidence in knowing your yacht is taken care of while earning 10% income annually for up to 3.5 years, with no surprise costs. 

The Charter Regular 

Do you charter annually, or multiple times per year, across the world? The benefits of purchasing the yacht of your choice with the Dream Guarantee program are clear and straightforward for the Charter Regular. 

The First-time Yacht Owner 

The ease and security of knowing that berthing, maintenance, logistics and cleaning are taken care of, is the ideal setup for a first-time owner. Just turn up and set sail. 

The Yacht Sharing Savvy 

A savvy way to use the Dream Guarantee program is to gather a few friends together and split the cost of the yacht purchase. By sharing the yacht ownership you only pay a fraction of the cost, still enjoy all the benefits of the program and get to sail anywhere in the world. So, say you split the cost with 2 other couples, you could expect 4 weeks of charter time per year, or more if you choose to sail all together, anywhere in the world! 

Sail the World with the New Dream Guarantee

Ready to get started with the Dream Guarantee Ownership Program? Dream Yacht’s expert yacht consultants can discuss your options with you and guide you through the process from start to finish, so that you are confident the setup is right for you. 

For more info, visit their website or contact the team via email contact@dreamyachtsales.com

Read More:

• Ben Meakins’ Adventures: Round The Island Race
• Round The Island Race 2024: Early Bird Entry Closing Soon!
• New May Issue: Sailing Today with Yachts and Yachting – Out Now

The post Dream Guarantee: Dream Yacht’s New 10% Income Offer appeared first on Sailing Today.

Immerse Yourself in the Essence of Luxury Sailing with Silver Sail

A luxury escape to the tranquil waters of Croatia awaits with Silver Sail. Whether you chose to go bareboat, with the assistance of a skipper, or with crew, their fleet of meticulously crafted sailing yachts offers an unparalleled experience. Combining the charm of the Adriatic Sea with elegance and comfort, their team offer an indulgent voyage of adventure.

Discover Unforgettable Destinations

Sail through breathtaking Croatian destinations, from the picturesque beaches of Hvar, to the island of Vis, a hidden gem with an unspoilt sailing experience. Stop over in Dubrovnik, known as the “Pearl of the Adriatic”, and soak in the heritage and remarkable architecture. With this company, exploring the Dalmatian coast’s hidden coves and charming coastal villages is made simple. You’ll voyage through Croatia’s history and nature with ease, and be inspired to return for more.

Expertise and Excellence

Silver Sail values integrity and respect, priding themselves on their commitment to organisation and excellence. Their specialised and experienced crew members are passionate and knowledgeable, ensuring a seamless and safe adventure. Whether you’re a sightseeing sunbather or an experienced sailor who wants to take the wheel, this company is the ideal partner for Croatia to deliver excellent service and support you in creating an unforgettable sailing experience.

Your Dream Voyage Awaits

The post Silver Sail Croatia: A luxury sailing experience appeared first on Sailing Today.

Our resident charter skipper Tom Fletcher narrates an unusual charter that took him a long way off the traditional tourist trail – to Peloponnese.

Heading for the Peloponnese region

I often ask myself why sailing long distances is so enjoyable, usually when alone on my watch late at night. I think I ask it repeatedly because the answer is always different, like the journey itself. On stormy nights, when tired and stressed, my answers are vulgar. On calm, beautiful starlit evenings, the peace and joy of the journey itself is the answer. The good times always outweigh the bad though. The slow speed of travel measured out in pencil on the chart below calms me; there is nothing to do and no responsibility apart from continuing steadily to your destination. The journey becomes life.

So it was with great anticipation that I stepped aboard the shiny new Bavaria 46 ready to depart on a journey to circumnavigate the Peloponnese. We would sail south from Sail Ionian’s base on Lefkada, around the three southern peninsulas of the Greek mainland. Past tempestuous Cape Maleas, which scuppered Odysseus, continuing up the coast to Athens, where we would change crew for our second week. And from there the return, through the Corinth Canal, to the Ionian.

The adventurous plan was made possible by one of the company’s business partners, who had bought a boat through our Yacht Partnership Scheme. The new Bavaria yacht would be run by Sail Ionian as part of the charter fleet, bought through the company dealership. In addition to an income from the charter business, the new owner received six weeks’ free usage of their boat as part of the deal. Keen to see more of Greece, they had arranged for a longer two-week trip and asked for a skipper to accompany them. Happily, I had drawn the lucky straw.

I think it is always sensible to have a short first day to allow the crew to find their sea legs and familiarise themselves with each other and the yacht before starting with shifts and longer distances. For the crew, this was their first long distance sailing voyage and we all wanted to enjoy the adventure. After a full safety brief, we cast off and headed south to Vathi on Ithaca. It was late April, and the spring wind was fresh off the northwest of Ithaca, topping 20knots, allowing us to have a great afternoon sailing, practicing MOBs, reefing, and generally blowing the cobwebs away!

Sailing into Vathi, Ithaca’s capital, fjord-like entrance comparisons with Odysseus were on our lips. Though Odysseus’ most famous journey was coming back from Turkey to Ithaca, he must have sailed along our route east first, on the way to the Trojan Wars. Surprisingly, Homer never names the ship in the Iliad. Our yacht, ‘Tranquilizer’, raises few eyebrows as we tie up on Vathi’s main quay though, just another early season charter visitor. Only we know of our more adventurous plans! After a few drinks and a great dinner, I let the crew sleep in a little. Our first passage to Pylos is around 100nm and I want to arrive in the morning light. The wind is supposed to be a relaxed NW3 for most of the trip which will probably only give us 5 knots downwind on our SSE heading, so I’m working on an assumed 20-hour passage.

Southward bound to the Peloponnese

We start with our shifts as soon as we’re out of the harbour. Three-hour solo watches for the three crew, myself as skipper on the float so I can help when needed. I volunteer to cook for this first passage while everyone settles in, but I’m cheating anyway as it’s a big tray of pre-prepared lasagna to warm in the oven. With the tea flowing and the sails up, it’s hard for anyone to go below and rest, but it’s important to get into the shift routine as soon as possible.

The night passes smoothly, we furl the main at sunset, leaving just the big genoa for the solo crew watches to manage, and still maintain four and a half knots. It’s a clear night with the sparkling lights of the mainland to port and the faint flashing of the Strofades lighthouse keeping us company to starboard. 

The sun rises over the steep cliffs of the island of Sphacteria, guarding Navarino Bay, where the Spartans were cut off and surrounded after the Battle of Pylos in 425BC. Pylos is a pretty town with French architecture and a history littered with conflict. Probably the most famous battle, and the most recent, is that of Navarino in 1827. The last major naval battle to be fought with sailing ships resulted in the destruction of an Ottoman-Egyptian fleet by a combined British-French-Russian fleet commanded by Vice-Admiral Edward Codrington, who is commemorated in Pylos’ central Three Admirals Square. I was glad I had decided to time our entry with the daylight, as the neglected marina was filled with debris and old lazy lines awaiting an unsuspecting propellor! A theme that would continue with the marinas of the Peloponnese.

The high midday sun made the waters of Navarino Bay a bright azure blue. As we motored away from Pylos, I gazed into the water just behind the boat, watching the shafts of sunlight play in our wake. Something square and black swam across my vision and sank away from the hull of boat into the depths. Adrenaline suddenly pumping, I jumped up and knocked the throttle into neutral. I couldn’t figure out what it was, but it had fallen off Tranquilizer. As the boat slowed, I quickly decided I needed to check the rudder and sail drive. Engine off and adrift in the calm bay, I lowered myself down the ladder into the surprisingly cold water and pulled on a scuba mask. On first impression, I couldn’t see anything missing. Thankfully, prop, sail drive, keel and rudder were all still present! I was just about to swim forward of the keel to check the depth sounder and log when I noticed the sail drive gaiter was missing. This is a square of rubber with a hole that sits over the sail drive covering the gap in the hull – mercifully, insignificant enough to not delay our journey!

Rounding the first of Greece’s three Peloponnese ‘fingers’ shortly after gave us a great view of the castle of Methoni and its octagonal ‘Bourtzi’ that protected the harbour. The huge peninsular castle has been occupied for centuries but most of what you can see now is either Venetian or Ottoman, with the octagonal tower belonging to the latter. It marked the start of our second hundred-mile passage which would take us around Cape Maleas to Monemvasia, on the eastern Peloponnese.

A lonely cape

My main concern for this Peloponnese passage was the weather. We would be very exposed around the south of the Greek mainland and in trouble if any southerly storms whipped up. Cape Maleas has a very nasty reputation as the weather systems from the east and west of the Greek mainland converge around its steep cliffs. Ports of refuge are few and far between and involve lengthy detours into either the Gulf of Messina, or the Gulf of Laconia. Large cargo ships are common here, so we had our VHF on dual watch with Ch.13 for bridge-to-bridge communication. The wind in the south was forecast to be light, but the eastern side of the mainland had N4-5, so we expected to encounter some resistance as we rounded Maleas.

Our Greek Waters Pilot identified Elafonisos, a small Peloponnese island just before Cape Maleas, as having sheltered anchorages, so we aimed for the big bay on its southern coast in case we needed to delay rounding the Cape.

A calm night passed slowly, with Tranquilizer only managing 4 knots most of the time. Plenty of marine traffic to watch and strange chatter on Ch.13. As anyone who has listened will know, the late-night watchkeepers on large cargo vessels have strange ways of keeping themselves awake and amused in the small hours! We tried to catch the Greek shipping forecast but, with the crackle from the radio and the Greek accent, were not able to make out any news on the northerly we worried about around the Cape.

At dawn, we found ourselves close to Elafonisos so decided to anchor for breakfast and get a mobile signal to check the forecast. Sand dunes encircled a huge shallow bay with a sandy bottom, a lovely sunny anchorage, and a morning swim was just too tempting! The forecasts were still similar with a northerly force of 4 –5 expected on the eastern side of the cape. Our route to the next harbour in the Peloponnese, Monemvasia, was directly north so we ate a good breakfast and stowed our gear expecting an exciting 20-mile upwind leg.

We left the anchorage and the sunshine behind, with moody cloud above the dark, steep headland ahead. The pilot book had done nothing to calm my nerves, with Heikell telling stories of unpredictable bad weather. Our Greek crew member lightened the mood though, telling us it was traditional to show your bum to the monks at the monastery perched on the cliffs. A cautious couple of miles off the Cape, unfortunately we couldn’t see their reaction!

I was worried for a moment as we rounded the cape; the wind picked up gusting above 30 knots and the sea state deteriorated into a confused choppy mess. Thankfully, our reefed mainsail helped settle the boat while we motored into the wind. After half an hour or so, it started to settle, and the wind eased to just under 20 knots. We unfurled the genoa on a port tack and picked up speed, heading almost exactly northeast.

An hour later, the wind had veered to the northeast, allowing us to set a starboard tack bound directly for Monemvasia, an invigorating 15 miles away. Tranquilizer plowed through the waves at close to 8 knots with one reef in the main, bringing Monemvasia into sight sooner than expected.

Sailing in the Peloponnese region: Gibraltar of the East

The ‘Gibraltar of the East’, as it is known, is a spectacular island fortress founded in the 6^th century AD by the descendants of the Spartans, and was, during the Byzantine period, one of the most important cities in the eastern Mediterranean. Joined to the mainland by a narrow shingle causeway, the island’s walled town is a beautiful, car-free labyrinth of winding alleys and beautiful squares overlooking the sea. Above the squares, a steep path snakes its way up to the ruins of the Byzantine upper town. 

The marina, with its obligatory stray ropes floating in the water, was as neglected as Pylos. Only a mile away from the causeway, in the modern-day town of Yefira, we at least managed to find a fuel truck and a working tap to refill our water tanks. Alongside the breakwater wall, we decided to explore beautiful Monemvasia and spend the night there.

Departing the following morning, we hugged the shore to get the best view of the old walled town, then set sail headed northeast with 15 knots of northwesterly wind coming down the coast. The morning was bright but cloudy and we had a much shorter day sail to look forward to. We were ahead of schedule due to the straightforward passage around Maleas, and planned to overnight in Hydra and break the last leg to Athens in half. Skirting the Myrtoan Sea took us offshore, a great day sailing with a consistent breeze and Tranquilizer under full sail. 

The wind dropped as we neared Porto Heli, and we had to complete the last 10 miles motoring. I had never been to Hydra and peered ahead eagerly as we approached the harbour, keen to see the famous town. We had, however, forgotten it was May Day. Hydra was rammed! Water taxis and a ferry charged across the harbour entrance, whilst the main yacht quay on the breakwater was awash with fiberglass! I had never seen yachts moored stern-to in front of other yachts moored stern-to! There was a line of 10 or so boats tied to the quay, parked as normal with their anchors out. But in front of them, wedged into the gaps between the bows, and tied to their mid-ship cleats, was another line of 10 yachts with their anchors out. And, believe me or not, another rank in front of them! It was absolute chaos. I turned tail and ran!

Luckily, Mandraki Bay, a mile east, was a lot more relaxed, with plenty of space to long line from the rocks. A large hotel overlooked the bay, and those crazy water taxis happily picked us up from the yacht and whizzed us past the chaotic harbour to Hydra’s sea front. The car-free town is very pretty, with winding steep alleys, and buzzing cafes and tavernas alive with chic Athenian sailors enjoying the public holiday. The water taxi and the holiday mood may have resulted in one bottle too many at dinner, but we only had another 40 miles to Athens the next day, so didn’t mind a late start.

A refreshing 20 knots of north easterly across the Saronic quickly woke us up, and Tranquilizer leapt through the spray eager to make Athens early. The Saronic, and in particular the TSS off Athens dictates caution though. So many tankers ply the waters to the oil bunkers of Piraeus. Combined with the public holiday leisure traffic, we were kept very busy with the hand bearing compass avoiding racing yachts and commercial traffic alike! 

The Peloponnese to Madness in Athens

I had never been to Athens on a yacht before, and opted for Alimos marina, which I now know was a mistake (and that Flisvos is much more pleasant). Alimos is where most of the charter yachts are based and, as it was a public holiday weekend, it was absolute madness. The first big weekend of the Greek sailing season is not something enjoyable when you are looking for your berth in a huge unfamiliar marina! Thankfully, the wind was light, and we berthed in our spot without difficulty, bringing the first week’s adventure to a close.

Part 2, the return to the Ionian via the Corinth Canal, will feature in next month’s issue.

About the author:

Tom Fletcher is a Lefkas based charter skipper and RYA instructor who has worked for many years for Sail Ionian – during which time he has amassed a huge knowledge of the area.

sailionian.com

Read More:

• Sailing French Polynesia: The Dangerous Archipelago of Tuamotus
• Boat Test: C-Cat 48
• Tom Cunliffe: Fog’s Not What It Used To Be

The post Peloponnese: Sailing In Peaceful Greece appeared first on Sailing Today.

Janet McMeekin provides a novices view of the fun  and frolics of a Greek flotilla holiday.

As a non-sailor, I was rather alarmed when my husband dropped the bombshell that he would love to mark his 60th birthday year by embarking on a ‘dream’ family flotilla holiday, sailing around the Ionian islands in Greece.

Trying hard to suppress the urge to blurt out: ‘No way! That’s my idea of a nightmare,’ I squirmed inwardly, hoping this was a fleeting notion that would rapidly vanish into the ether. Well, not a bit of it! After some rather, shall we say, interesting discussions, and reassurance from numerous flotilla aficionados telling me how much I’d love the experience, I decided to take the plunge (thankfully, not literally).

On a heady, blue-sky day in August, I found myself at Neilson’s Vounaki Marina near Palairos, on the west coast of Greece, boarding a Dufour 405 Grand Large yacht to receive a comprehensive briefing, before setting off for a week’s island-hopping in the South Ionian Sea. At that point, I was sorely tempted to ask whether I could just nip up the meandering paths leading back to Neilson’s beachclub – lured by the thought of swimming in the resort’s tranquil infinity pool, road biking in the hills, participating in a few fitness classes, and devouring a book or two on terra firma – but I managed to hold back in a bid to take one for the team.

As the wooden boarding plank was drawn up on our 40ft yacht, Annie, we motored gently out of the sheltered harbour, each of us pondering our expectations for the week ahead. In a surreal, almost trance-like state, I was wondering whether this nautical adventure would be an opportunity to finally find my sea-legs, or be more akin to a Greek tragedy, peppered with myriad warts and all moments – the ideal material for a fly-on-the-wall family sailing sitcom.

Differing levels of experience

My husband, Phil, grew up with sailing; it’s in his DNA and a passion. Having recently completed his Day Skipper qualification in horrendous weather conditions in The Solent after, what I had considered to be a weekend akin to the raging seas scene in The Wolf of Wall Street film, Phil strolled calmly into our living room, enthusing about how exhilarating the experience had been. Itching to gain his Yachtmaster, he was hatching a plan to sail around the whole of the UK! On the other hand, I was brought up in a family that played racquet sports, and, as a child, developed a fear of sailing during a particularly stormy ferry crossing between the Isle of Man and Liverpool.

Since relocating to the south coast 20 years ago, I’ve been quite happy to pootle around beautiful Chichester Harbour in an emerald green and white kayak, occasionally joining the family for a dinghy outing when the conditions are, in my humble opinion ‘just right’; in other words, sunny, with a gentle breeze and absolutely no risk of the wind whipping up.

Don’t get me wrong. I’m not a wimp and very sociable, but, until recently, I’ve often felt like the proverbial ‘fish out of water’ at our local yacht club. I don’t sail and am not au fait with the nautical terminology; knowing port (left) from starboard (right) was, until this holiday, my limit. However, during our group pre-flotilla briefing in Vounaki, determined to be more open-minded, I was instantly reassured (and totally impressed), by the professionalism of our jovial, young Neilson lead crew, Izzy, Millie and James. 

Remarkably, minutes after they cheerily waved us all off towards Meganisi – the first port of call – before setting off in Rachel themselves, something rather magical happened. As we sailed through the crystal-clear, azure waters with the gentle wind in my hair, while inhaling the salty air, I could feel my shoulders drop. I started to relax into this life on the ocean wave.

The aficionados were right. This was fun! With cries of ‘ahoy my hearties’, our family spontaneously launched into pirate mode, larking about for some impromptu photographs and videos.

I couldn’t quite believe it when, within an hour, I was actually asking to take my turn at helming Annie – reckoning that, as long as there was no other vessel within about a half-a-mile, what could possibly go wrong?

With our children Louisa and Jonny having fled the nest a few years ago, it was a wonderful opportunity to spend quality time together once again, marvelling at the rugged coastline, dotted with cypress trees and terracotta-roofed homes, while feeling the warmth of the sunshine on our skin.

Greek Flotilla: Family fun

Playing to our individual strengths, without being asked, both of the offspring adopted a first-mate approach for ‘skipper’ Phil. I also stepped up to the plate, hauling the fenders out of an unfeasibly deep locker, preparing the lunch, complete with freshly-baked bread, garlicky tzatziki, stuffed vine leaves, and olives, while keeping Annie looking ship-shape. 

The more hands-on members of the family discovered that my endeavours to impart information about our destinations by reading aloud from Rod and Lucinda Heikell’s informative Ionian pilot book, was actually extremely helpful. 

By the time we arrived at the pretty little bay of Vathi on Meganisi, we were well into the swing of Greek flotilla life and pulling together in true team spirit fashion.

After successfully mooring up stern-to (aka in reverse!), beside the other Neilson yachts, diving off Annie’s bow for a refreshing swim and gentle paddleboard around the picturesque bay was a must. We then wandered up for welcome drinks and the chance to mingle with our friendly flotilla ‘shipmates’ and lead crew before joining the whole gang for a tasty Greek meal at the shoreside taverna. Over a well-deserved glass or two of rosé, I discovered that the skippers’ experience levels varied quite considerably. 

The other Janet on our ten-yacht Greek flotilla explained that her family had opted to have a Neilson skipper, Anna, for the week; a sensible idea for less confident sailors, or those who would prefer to take more of a back seat role and let someone else take the strain. Anna sailed with the family during the day, and then joined the rest of the lead crew on Rachel when they arrived at their destination. 

The next day, due to concerns about unseasonably high winds, we had a chance to explore Vathi by foot – not a bad spot to hole up for an extra day, as it happened! Phil’s initial disappointment at being unable to sail vanished swiftly as we ambled into this historic harbourside village, stopping for a leisurely coffee, mingling with the locals and topping up our fresh provisions from the bustling, independent stores and a fabulous bakery find.

As we strolled back in the hot midday sun, the turquoise water of the cove near our mooring was beckoning us for an invigorating dip, and fun paddleboard race with our new-found flotilla pals. The surprisingly competitive race proved to be quite the bonding experience as parents, children and lead crew attempted the challenge of traversing eight bright orange paddleboards without tumbling in unceremoniously. Neilson engineer, James, had clearly honed his skills during the season, and was particularly impressive, achieving the mission with aplomb in gazelle-like fashion.

The shining star of the ensuing flotilla quiz was, bizarrely, a bright green praying mantis which landed on our table and astounded us with a fascinating display of, what could be described as twerking (although I’m sure David Attenborough would be able to shed more light on this term!), before attempting to scale the handle of our son’s pint glass in a bid to sample Jonny’s ice-cold Mythos beer. 

Island hopping

The next few days were simply idyllic as we sailed from one enchanting port to another, exploring the islands of Ithaca, Meganisi and Lefkas. 

Round every headland, there was another delight, from an ancient whitewashed chapel with bright blue doors, perched precariously on a rocky outcrop, to secluded coves with sparkling water, and pretty hamlets on craggy hills, punctuated with vivid purple, red and pink bougainvillea.  

After each morning briefing, the crew would share details of that particular day’s destination and give us an approximate time when they would like us to arrive. Our family would then head back to Annie to plot a route, before heading off to seek out spots recommended by Izzy and Millie, where we could anchor, or go ‘off-piste’ to track down our own little slice of Ionian heaven. 

As well as pre-arranging marina berths and booking group dinner reservations at tavernas they’d previously checked out, the lead crew was able to advise on the handiest shops and showers in each port, and were more than happy to answer questions. The crew had the happy knack of always arriving well ahead of the rest of the flotilla to reassuringly guide us all safely into port. When any technical or mooring assistance was required, engineer James deftly came to the rescue, sorting out any issues calmly and without a fuss.  

 In fact, the crew’s relaxed yet conscientious attitude made the whole week feel extremely stress-free and thoroughly enjoyable. They were always there, either at the end of the radio, or in person, if we needed support.  

 In the knowledge that we had this back-up to hand, we could confidently experience the freedom of exploring these stunning islands, gaining a very different perspective from sailing Annie than we ever would have done if we had been restricted to travelling on land. 

The ability to cover so much ground in just a few days, without the hassle of packing up and unpacking was a huge bonus. As several people had advised, I didn’t need to bring half the number of clothes. Thankfully, the ‘just-in-case’ raincoat remained at the very bottom of my handy Gill rolling carry bag. It was sunshine all the way.

Greek flotilla holiday: An idyllic adventure

I could write a book, rather than a feature, about the countless stop-and-stare moments during our idyllic adventure.

Dropping anchor in a verdant bay for a family snorkel session off mythical Ithaca was one of many ‘pinch me’ occasions. I’ll never forget the variation in the colour of the glassy water, or hearing the chattering noise of the crickets in the nearby pine trees.

The sunrise at the stunning harbourside village of Kioni was breathtaking. Rising at the crack of dawn, I padded quietly along Annie’s deck without waking either my sleeping family, or the flotilla friends slumbering in hammocks suspended from the rigging on the next yacht. Watching a trio of boats bobbing gently against the spectacular backdrop of muted pale pinks, light blue and soft orange hues as the sun rose, almost brought me to tears!

 On the flip-side, tears of laughter rolled down my cheeks while witnessing the comical antics of two naturists in a tiny cove off Levkas. I’m not in any way prudish but was quite surprised when, rather than preserving their modesty and donning another item of swimwear as we dropped anchor, the middle-aged couple decided to strip off and reveal all – much to the hilarity of our family. Young Jonny’s timely quips triggered much merriment on board Annie! 

The only moment I felt slightly apprehensive happened on a stretch of water between Lefkas and Meganisi when we hit a choppy swell and the boat rolled and rolled. Thankfully, Phil, Louisa and Jonny rallied to the cause, distracting me with amusing anecdotes and – I survived to tell the tale. 

That uncomfortable hour or so soon became a distant memory as we sailed into the harbour at Sivota with Pink Floyd’s Shine on You Crazy Diamond belting out from the holiday playlist. The joyous look on skipper Phil’s face said it all. It was clear that his expectations for the milestone birthday had been well and truly surpassed.

Back at the Vounaki resort, as the Greek flotilla gang tucked into a tasty barbecue, looking fondly out towards the coast, there was no doubt that every single person had embraced and wholeheartedly enjoyed this shared experience.

The next day, while enjoying a final swim in the pool before flying back to England, as I glanced towards the marina, two thoughts sprang to mind. The first was why on earth I had originally protested so much. The second was when we could we possibly book our next flotilla holiday! 

It’s safe to say that our week on Annie had been a resounding success and one of the most memorable weeks of my life. Over, over…

BOX:

Neilson Greek Flotilla (South Ionian) – seven nights

9^th June 2024 

LGW flights

2AD 2CH (10 and 12 although same price for any age including adults)

£970pp

Read more:

• Boat Test: Dufour 370
• RYA Dinghy & Watersports Show 2024 
• Chartering in Greece: Three Greecy Areas

The post First time on a Greek flotilla – The reluctant sailor appeared first on Sailing Today.

Greek cruising and chartering

With 15,000 kilometres of coastline and around 6,000 Islands to explore, the cruising area of Greece is vast and offers a huge range of conditions to suit all levels of ability. If you are looking to escape the madding crowds, don’t be put off by the popularity of Greece because one of the reasons why it remains a charter holiday hot spot is because there are plenty of places to explore in areas such as the Saronic Gulf, the Cyclades, and the Ionian Sea.

When chartering in Greece most bases are in prime positions, which means you don’t need to sail for days to find tranquil anchorages off the beaten track, or quaint harbour towns with waterside cafes and restaurants. There are plenty of opportunities to embrace the rich and diverse local Greek traditions too, so ultimately, it could be the ideal place if you are keen to combine sailing with cultural activities onshore.

The Saronic Gulf

The Saronic Gulf, also known as the Gulf of Aegina, is created by the peninsulas of Attica and Argolis, and includes part of the Aegean Sea. Given its location – the closest islands to Athens – and the fact it is known for its crystal water and relaxing way of life, it’s a popular resort with the locals. The winds in this area are generally moderate from the southeast and consistent, which means if you have previous experience, you’ll enjoy this area.

This part of Greece is also rich in culture and architecture with places like the ancient port of Hydra regarded as the gem of the Saronic islands. Its stone buildings that line harbour, make it an inviting place to sail into and, with no traffic allowed on this island and, donkeys the preferred mode of transportation, it’s a fun place to visit.

Aegina, Poros, and Spetses are some of the other places worth cruising to, as is Agistri, which is less popular and therefore a good place to explore.

There are plenty of charter companies that operate in the area with variety of charter opportunities including bareboat, skippered or flotilla with companies like Sailing Holidays, Seafarer Sailing Holiday, Sunsail, Dream Yacht Worldwide, and Venture Sail Holidays just a small selection. Sunsail’s base at Athens’ Zea Marina is a good starting point for a bareboat or skipper charter, while Sailing Holidays offer a two-week flotilla which starts and finishes in Astrous and takes in all the beauty spots and ‘secret’ anchorages. For a by-the-cabin charter, look at what Nautilus has to offer aboard its Lagoon 400 catamaran.

Cruising in Cyclades

Cyclades islands, which are in the central Aegean Sea are noted for their iconic, vibrant, whitewashed hilltop villages, churches with blue domed roofs, and windmills. Given its location further to east and in open waters, however, you’ll find the wind is stronger than in the west part of Greece, which mean you are likely to enjoy consistently fresh winds. Therefore, when chartering in Greece, it is more suited if you are of intermediate level and above, and want to enjoy the thrill of fast passage-making in spectacular conditions. The ideal time to sail in this area is May or June, and September and October for the best chance to avoid the Meltemi northerly wind that pipes up in July and August and can reach Force 7-8. Nautilus Yachting offers a selection of option with its recommended one week bareboat on a Sun Odyssey 410 starting from Lavrion (40-minute transfer from Athens airport). Sailing Holidays also operates from Lavrion with its one-week charter itinerary taking in all the beauty spots on its exploration trip of  Cyclades with the most popular islands Santorini and Mykonos. For a by-the cabin option, Seafarer’s one week cruise aboard one of its fully crewed 52ft sailing yachts – Christianna VII or Blue Marlin – could be the ultimate relaxing holiday.

The Ionian

Holidaymakers with a relaxing outlook or those with young families should consider a short leg/island-hopping option such as the Ionian. When chartering in Greece, the Islands in these areas are just far enough apart to enjoy a good sail in the reliable winds, which are generally not too much of a challenge. It is lush and picturesque and offers stunning anchorages and beaches with plenty of opportunity to enjoy the local taverna culture.

Southern Ionian islands are within proximity, and navigation is mainly line of sight, some careful route planning can mean you can cover a couple of hundred sea miles in a one-week visit. Head down to Kefalonia or Ithaca on day one, and then back up to Meganisi on day two – you don’t need to take the circular route that most flotillas follow. The Northern Ionian with the beautiful island of Corfu often a starting point with companies like Sailing Holidays, that offers easy access from the airport, and places like Sagiadha, Petriti, Paxos, Gaios some of the highlights of the cruising area. 

Sail Ionian, as the name suggests, specialises in sailing holidays in the Ionian Islands from Lefkas (Vliho Bay) and has plenty to offer from bareboat, skippered, luxury all-inclusive charter, flotilla, to tuition-based holidays.

Among the other many companies that operate in the Ionian, Sunsail, and Seafarer offer flotillas from their bases at Maganisi (east-southeast of the island of Lefkada), which is a great idea for families and groups of friends. Seafarer also has an option to combine its flotilla with a beach club holiday, or tuition. Dream Yacht Worldwide has bareboat and skipper charter options in this area too as does Nautilus Yachting. Nautilus Yachting also runs flotillas, which starts and finishe in the ancient city of Palairos in the south part of the Ionian on mainland Greece.

Finally, for something different in the Southern Ionian, check out Dragon Drascombe that runs a bespoke discover Greece package holiday aboard its Drascombe Lugger, or Wildwind, for the ultimate beach-based Greek holiday.

Read more:

• The best boat wi-fi – everything you need to know about staying connected onboard
• Why I’ve developed a new navigation app, by Tom Cunliffe
• Entries for the 2024 Round the Island Race are open

The post Chartering in Greece: Three Greecy Areas appeared first on Sailing Today.