Tom Fletcher, Author at Sailing Today https://www.sailingtoday.co.uk/author/tomsailionian-com/ Go Further | Sail Better | Be Inspired Mon, 07 Oct 2024 15:34:01 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.2.2 Changes to Sailing the Med: How Ionian Marinas are Developing https://www.sailingtoday.co.uk/news/changes-to-sailing-the-med-how-ionian-marinas-are-developing/ Mon, 07 Oct 2024 15:34:00 +0000 https://www.sailingtoday.co.uk/?p=30072 With two new marinas on Lefkas alone, and several developments planned for the surrounding islands, Tom Fletcher looks at the future of the ever-popular cruising area… As the Ionian goes from strength to strength as a cruising area, it is only natural that it must change with the times. Many long-term visitors and residents wish […]

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Ionian
Ionian marinas & Islands. Credit: Shutterstock

As the Ionian goes from strength to strength as a cruising area, it is only natural that it must change with the times. Many long-term visitors and residents wish that it would stay the same as it was when they first came and retain its off the beaten track charms. However, the volume of tourism and yachts are increasing, and the region must adapt to continue to offer an attractive cruising area.

New developments and new marinas should go ahead. They will irrevocably change the areas they are situated in, but they will also help conserve nearby locations by accommodating a huge volume of boats in a well-designed modern way. They will take some of the load off the smaller harbours and bays. One marina will have a large catchment, leaving the rest of the area to a more natural future.

Meganisi
Meganisi Island Greece aerial view of the seashore and the sea

That does not have to mean losing the spirit of the past Ionian though. The charm of quiet fishing harbours and quiet anchorages ought to be protected. But the increasing volume of tourism is a hard problem to solve and is being played out in numerous locations across the world. The only responsible thing to do is to embrace progress and to try to guide it in a positive, sensitive direction. It is pointless to hide one’s head in the past and hope that change will pass us by.

The major concern is the environment. Whilst we all like to believe that sailing is an ecologically friendly activity, this is not always the case. The sheer volume of boats has a marked effect on our surroundings, and on wildlife. Ecological damage to the area from the constant use of anchors, holding tanks emptying black water into the sea due to a lack of pump out stations, pollution from engines and from service industries… the list goes on.

Responsible sailors and charter companies, like Sail Ionian, now rely heavily on solar power, reducing the use of generators. Electric outboards are also a major step forward. We try to improve every year, organising beach clean-ups, providing eco-friendly detergents on board the yachts and pushing new developments in green technology. We have been trying for years to find a cost-effective filtration system for the yachts’ water tanks to reduce the purchase of bottled water!

For the local municipalities, providing new facilities is a key contribution to improve standards. Marinas with modern facilities have a raft of benefits to the environment and to the local population. Collection points for waste oils, proper sewage disposal and adherence to many EU standards benefit residents as well as visiting sailors. To maintain that these developments are not wanted and will destroy the charm of the area is churlish and short-sighted.

As visitors to the Ionian, we must understand that this region, and Greece as a whole, is only just coming out of a major recession. The priority must be on a sustainable, profitable future for the region. Developers need to be held to account in this respect. Infrastructure must be invested in by the government, so that the islands can cope with the volume of visitors they receive.

Recently completed projects on Lefkada include the marina in Vassiliki and a new yacht harbour in Nydri. Unfortunately, neither is operational yet due to legal paperwork – a constant plague in Greece. The 100-berth marina in Vassiliki, which includes a substantial breakwater and new ferry quay has been held up by legal wranglings for 2 or 3 years now. When it finally opens, it will provide a much-needed facility convenient for Lefkada, northern Kefalonia, and Ithaca. The impact on the town will be beneficial, with new business and employment to support the boats and business the ferry brings. 

Nydri’s smaller 70-berth harbour should also start operating soon and will hopefully open the town to sailors. Previously the main town quay has always been taken over by large day-trip boats, leaving little space for visiting yachts. It was also badly exposed to swell and winds from the east which the new breakwater will provide shelter from. 

The mainland has its share of planned developments too, with a 400-berth marina planned for the area just to the north of the existing harbour in Palairos. There is also a large luxury hotel planned close by, near the beach of Varko. How many of these planned developments will come to fruition remains to be seen, as funding and legislation can be unpredictable.

Grand plans in Mediterranean: New Ionian marinas

One of the most contentious of the proposed developments is in Vliho Bay, Sail Ionian’s home. For many years now, a large marina has been slated for the south end of the bay. Recently, progress seems to have been made, with visits by various ministers and the publication of a 500+ page report and various architect’s drawings. The study goes into considerable detail about the environmental impact on the local area.

 Vliho
A long exposure of sunrise seascape with a small wooden boat in a bay.

This marina is planned to accommodate over 800 berths, making it far bigger than Lefkas’ marina, and has a budget of €47 million! Local opinion is divided, and it is a subject sparking lively debate. The plan includes substantial redevelopment of the sea front in the village of Vliho, and dredging of the south of the bay. It is probably the most ambitious project in the Ionian and will make a huge change to the local area – if it actually goes ahead.

Plans for Vliho
Ionian marinas: Plans for Vliho

The mayor of Lefkada, Thannasis Kavadas, was quoted as saying “The Marina in Vliho, which with a capacity of 848 berths will be the 3rd largest marina in the country, in addition to the development it will bring to the wider area, is part of the great goal we have set to turn Lefkada into a leading destination and maritime centre tourism in the Ionian. We continue, on the path of major investments, for the progress and well-being of our country and its people, with truth and work for Lefkada”.

Administration buildings and a 12-meter-high control tower are planned for the Vliho seafront, a new fishing harbour, and the south of the bay will be home to a hotel, swimming pool, and villa-style residences, as well as various support services and a boat yard.

Plans
Ionian marinas: Plans for Vliho

Whilst this brave vision is an example of what the future could hold for Lefkada, it would be nice to see some more effort made to retain the character of the bay, with its history of fishing and shipbuilding. The striking modern architecture certainly does not blend into the current character of Vliho. Though it will at least replace the dilapidated hulks and sunken wrecks that persist in the corners and seem to be immovable to the municipality, despite the bay’s protected status!

Ionian marinas: Controversial development

Probably the most controversial development though, is planned for Atherinou Bay on Meganisi. The local municipality have been pushing since 2015 for a 90-berth marina in the bay, which many regard as one of the most beautiful anchorages on the island. As you can imagine, it is hotly debated with passions running high for many long-term visitors and residents. Three floating pontoons are planned to project out into the bay, with a length of 60 – 75m, anchored to a 200m floating walkway along the shore, and associated service buildings.

Ionian marinas
Ionian marinas

The Mayor of Meganisi, Pavlos Daglas, said: “A project that will spectacularly upgrade both the region and Meganisi as a whole, while it will be a driver of development as it will upgrade the tourism product of our island, it will create prospects and incentives for new investments in our place and, by extension, new jobs.”

The artist’s impressions show a sleek modern design, with low-lying buildings designed to blend into the bay’s natural landscape. 

Atherinou has always been a busy bay, with a beach bar, taverna, shop and quayside. In my opinion, a well-designed small marina would be an advantage to the area and stop the repeated environmental damage that occurs every day from countless anchors. The marina facilities will further help to protect the environment and the neighbouring bays of Kapeli, Abeliekie and Elia will greatly benefit too.

plans
Plans for Atherinou

To safeguard the future of the Ionian for everyone progress must be made. Developments like these must be allowed to go ahead. But they must be held to high standards, with the vision being one of protecting the region, not of profit. The area cannot continue with the anticipated volume of boats and prosper without changing.

Facilities are as crucial to the future of yachting as the green technological development of the boats themselves. A vision for a future of electric propulsion, green energy, 100% waste recycling, and a policy of ‘leave no trace’ must be the aim, and new marinas are essential for that ambition.

Tom Fletcher is a hugely experience skipper and instructor at Sail Ionian. For more information, visit the Sail Ionian Website.

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Anchoring Masterclass: How to Anchor like an Expert https://www.sailingtoday.co.uk/news/anchoring-masterclass-how-to-anchor-like-an-expert/ Wed, 14 Aug 2024 12:00:39 +0000 https://www.sailingtoday.co.uk/?p=29694 Want to anchor with confidence and ease? Tom Fletcher shares some hard learnt charter skipper secrets for expert anchoring… Tackling Anchoring Have you ever had the Greek Gods of Anchoring displeased with you? I have. I once spent a week on charter with a wonderfully nice father and daughter, on board Sail Ionian’s brand-new Bavaria […]

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Boats at anchor
Anchoring with ease. Credit: Sail Ionian

Want to anchor with confidence and ease? Tom Fletcher shares some hard learnt charter skipper secrets for expert anchoring…

Tackling Anchoring

Have you ever had the Greek Gods of Anchoring displeased with you? I have. I once spent a week on charter with a wonderfully nice father and daughter, on board Sail Ionian’s brand-new Bavaria C50, and it was an absolute nightmare. What’s more, the yacht had just had a new 30kg Rocna fitted, so I couldn’t even blame the ground tackle! Everywhere I went that week I had to have three or four attempts at dropping before the anchor would catch. By the end, I was in tears with frustration, and still don’t know what I was doing wrong. The next time I took her out on charter I had no problems whatsoever.

In the Ionian we rely heavily on our anchor. It can make or break a week on charter so always make a point of checking what the yacht you’re booking is equipped with. Even for a 30-footer I wouldn’t want under 50m of chain. If I was being demanding, as a rule of thumb I would multiply the length of the boat in meters x5, to get the minimum number of meters of chain I would like.

Favoured anchor types will vary depending upon the type of seabed or the area you’re in. Designs like the Bruce or Fluke can be outstanding in sandy areas like the Caribbean. CQRs can be brilliant where tidal flow direction can change, as the design allows them to twist without breaking out. Even fisherman anchors or grapnels can be useful in rocky areas and riverbeds. However, my years of experience in the Ionian have taught me that a Rocna is the best you can get for varied types of seabeds. At Sail Ionian the whole fleet is retrofitted with Rocnas, or their sister the Vulcan which doesn’t have the roll bar.

anchor in bay
Credit: Sail Ionian

Make sure your boat handover goes into detail on the windlass and where the trip switch or fuse is. You will want to know how to tighten the gypsy, and how to free drop the chain too. If you can test the windlass by dropping and raising chain, do so. It’s good to see if the windlass is slow or fast, whether it sounds healthy, and if there is any juddering or slipping (which is a good indication of a worn gypsy that should be replaced before you leave).

The crew

I have a real bugbear with skippers who don’t realise the importance of their crew on the bow. With a little training and explanation, they can be the yacht’s best asset when anchoring. I have lost count of the number of times I have started training a crew how to med moor, only to find that the bow person doesn’t have a clue what they are doing, and merely responds to shouted direction from the helm. I like to teach the bow person about techniques, types of seabeds, length of chain… all sorts. I guess some people aren’t that interested, but most seem to like to understand what they are doing!  A crew working together in this way is much more effective. When small problems arise, they can then be dealt with quickly. I like to teach some hand signals too, to stop the shouting over the noise of the windlass and the wind. A basic set of ‘drop’, ‘stop’, ‘up’ and ‘down’ are enough to deal with most needs. Knowledge of how to weigh anchor and control the chain when it’s coming in are invaluable too.

Don’t try to anchor on a steep declining seabed

This is one that is peculiar to deep water anchorages, of which we have many in the Ionian! It can be a common situation that you are trying to anchor near the shore, with the wind blowing the yacht off. However, because of the steepness of the seabed you have the bow in 5m of water but the stern in 10m of water! As you reverse and lay out chain the yacht is getting into progressively deeper and deeper water. The anchor just has no chance of holding as it is, in effect, being dragged down a hill. The moral of the story being to consider not just the material of the seabed, but also the bathymetry.

Deep water techniques

It is quite common on an Ionian charter that I will choose to anchor in well over 10 meters of water. The main constraints with depth are firstly the length of chain we carry, and secondly the strength of the windlass motor. At Sail Ionian, a typical 40ft charter yacht will carry at least 60 meters of chain. Using the old maxim of 4-5 times the depth of water, we get a maximum anchoring depth range of around 12-15 meters. Our windlasses can deadlift a substantial weight, but when you consider the length of chain plus the anchor at the end, it is a considerable lift. We usually recommend to guests to always stick under 12 meters, much deeper than that and fuses can start blowing!

When dropping in these depths it is important to remember that it takes time for the anchor to hit the seabed. We often see people reversing as they drop, not realising by the time the anchor catches they can easily be 15-20 meters further away from where they intended the anchor to be. This can cause all sorts of complications, from changes in depth to distance from the shore for long lining. In fact, the most common issue this causes is when long lining; the yacht ends up much closer to the shore than intended, with much less chain out that desired! It’s easy to time your windlass over 10 meters of chain to get an idea how quick it is, then you know roughly how long it will take for the anchor to drop to the seabed.

I would advise positioning the bow where you want the anchor, then letting down 10m of chain, before starting to reverse into the wind, ensuring your anchor is where you want it.

Always look for clear water

The colour of the water is the first give-away of what sort of seabed you’re dealing with, and where in a bay you should drop the hook. A normal Ionian bay will have beautiful clear water and be a uniform mid blue, with patches of light blue. Those light blue patches are usually sandy, without any weed, and are a great spot to aim for. Firstly, you should explore the anchorage at slow speed, keeping one eye on the depth gauge and one eye on the water. Different parts of the bay may be windier that other too. Once you’ve picked your spot, look for those lighter patches of water and aim to get the bow over them. Here is another great example of where you need to reply on your crew on the bow. They will need to direct you to position the bow of the boat over the sand and drop the anchor there. Again, a little communication in terms of positioning and depth, or length of chain, is needed, so that you can get the anchor down on the sand before you start moving in reverse.

boat anchor
Credit: Sail Ionian

Wind directions & local knowledge

Considering wind direction is one of the first lessons to be taught about anchoring. It is, however, complicated by the fickle nature of the Ionian wind. At the mercy of island topography, katabatics, and even time of day, picking a spot that isn’t a lee shore can sometimes be harder than you think. Often a perfect lunchtime anchorage with a light offshore breeze can change to a lee shore once the temperature of the day increases and the afternoon anabatic winds start up.

The first time I saw local Greek charter skippers long lining off the beach in Marmagas on Ithaca I was confused. The morning breeze was light and blowing them onto the shore. I assumed their guests must have asked to be as close to the beach as possible. By the end of lunch though, the wind had switched to a feisty offshore 15 knots, gusting above 20, and my anchor was dragging into deeper water where I had dropped in the middle of the bay. Those Greek charter skippers were sitting comfortably, being blown off the beach, with the strain on their long lines, not on their anchor. It’s always worth keeping a humble eye on what other sailors are doing – there’s always someone cleverer than yourself! 

Free dropping chain vs. lowering on the windlass

As divisive an issue as any in sailing circles! Many who care for their own windlass much prefer to treat it carefully and drop chain freely, by loosening the gypsy, taking the strain away from the windlass motor. At Sail Ionian, we always tell our guests to drop using the windlass though. We feel it gives guests more control, and there is less danger of fingers getting near fast moving lengths of chain. There is also a tendency for the gypsy not to be tightened enough after free dropping. This can result in slipping when weighing anchor, which in turn causes a lot of engineering call-outs and a large fuel bill for a very quick job of tightening the gypsy to the correct tension.

The most important time to consider dropping freely, and quickly, is when you are anchoring in a very windy situation. Sometimes you just want to get the anchor down fast and keep the boat under control using the engine. This can be particularly true for long lining or med mooring in a crosswind. Releasing the chain slowly on the windlass motor can slow the yacht to the point where you lose all steerage.

Whenever free dropping anchor, it is essential to check the bitter end is attached to the yacht securely, and to slow the rate of descent as you approach the end of the chain. Bitter ends are designed to separate when needed, and the speed and weight of a full chain locker dropped without braking can be enough to rip the bitter end d-ring from the deck. I have seen the confused look on faces as the end of the chain follows the anchor to the seabed. Another good reason to train your bow person well! If this ever happens to you, try and note your position in the bay, or hit the MOB button on the GPS quickly. If they know where to look the charter company may be able to dive and find the tackle, saving you a large bill.

ionian
Credit: Sail Ionian

Checking you’re well in

Finally, a lot of the issues I see out there could be avoided with a final check to test the anchor. I often see anchors dropped and engine off within seconds, with no attempt to test how well the anchor is dug in. I prefer to sit there with the engine running at least 1000 rpm in reverse for the 5 minutes it takes for the kettle to boil, before I’m happy to relax.

It is a fact of life in the Ionian that there is a lot of weed on the seabed and often anchors can get caught up in this, appear to have set, but break free after a persistent snatch. But this can also be the situation when you have a lot of chain out too. The weight of the chain alone can be enough to resist light winds, or low revs on the engine. It’s only with more force that it becomes clear the anchor is not actually in, and the boat starts drifting.

I have spent many a stormy Vliho night on the bow of an anchored yacht in over 30 knots of wind and not moved anywhere. A well dug in anchor can cope with a surprising amount of force. So don’t be shy with checking you’re set, give her some revs and sit back for a few minutes. You’ll sleep a lot better.

Tom Fletcher is a hugely experience skipper and instructor at Sail Ionian. For more information, go to the Sail Ionian Website.

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Peloponnese: Sailing In Peaceful Greece https://www.sailingtoday.co.uk/charter-guide/peloponnese-sailing-in-peaceful-greece/ Wed, 27 Mar 2024 11:34:54 +0000 https://www.sailingtoday.co.uk/?p=28383 Our resident charter skipper Tom Fletcher narrates an unusual charter that took him a long way off the traditional tourist trail – to Peloponnese. Heading for the Peloponnese region I often ask myself why sailing long distances is so enjoyable, usually when alone on my watch late at night. I think I ask it repeatedly […]

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Peaceful Greece. Panoramic aerial view of voidokilia beach
Peaceful Greece. Panoramic aerial view of voidokilia beach. Credit: Shutterstock

Our resident charter skipper Tom Fletcher narrates an unusual charter that took him a long way off the traditional tourist trail – to Peloponnese.

Heading for the Peloponnese region

I often ask myself why sailing long distances is so enjoyable, usually when alone on my watch late at night. I think I ask it repeatedly because the answer is always different, like the journey itself. On stormy nights, when tired and stressed, my answers are vulgar. On calm, beautiful starlit evenings, the peace and joy of the journey itself is the answer. The good times always outweigh the bad though. The slow speed of travel measured out in pencil on the chart below calms me; there is nothing to do and no responsibility apart from continuing steadily to your destination. The journey becomes life.

So it was with great anticipation that I stepped aboard the shiny new Bavaria 46 ready to depart on a journey to circumnavigate the Peloponnese. We would sail south from Sail Ionian’s base on Lefkada, around the three southern peninsulas of the Greek mainland. Past tempestuous Cape Maleas, which scuppered Odysseus, continuing up the coast to Athens, where we would change crew for our second week. And from there the return, through the Corinth Canal, to the Ionian.

The adventurous plan was made possible by one of the company’s business partners, who had bought a boat through our Yacht Partnership Scheme. The new Bavaria yacht would be run by Sail Ionian as part of the charter fleet, bought through the company dealership. In addition to an income from the charter business, the new owner received six weeks’ free usage of their boat as part of the deal. Keen to see more of Greece, they had arranged for a longer two-week trip and asked for a skipper to accompany them. Happily, I had drawn the lucky straw.

I think it is always sensible to have a short first day to allow the crew to find their sea legs and familiarise themselves with each other and the yacht before starting with shifts and longer distances. For the crew, this was their first long distance sailing voyage and we all wanted to enjoy the adventure. After a full safety brief, we cast off and headed south to Vathi on Ithaca. It was late April, and the spring wind was fresh off the northwest of Ithaca, topping 20knots, allowing us to have a great afternoon sailing, practicing MOBs, reefing, and generally blowing the cobwebs away!

Sailing into Vathi, Ithaca’s capital, fjord-like entrance comparisons with Odysseus were on our lips. Though Odysseus’ most famous journey was coming back from Turkey to Ithaca, he must have sailed along our route east first, on the way to the Trojan Wars. Surprisingly, Homer never names the ship in the Iliad. Our yacht, ‘Tranquilizer’, raises few eyebrows as we tie up on Vathi’s main quay though, just another early season charter visitor. Only we know of our more adventurous plans! After a few drinks and a great dinner, I let the crew sleep in a little. Our first passage to Pylos is around 100nm and I want to arrive in the morning light. The wind is supposed to be a relaxed NW3 for most of the trip which will probably only give us 5 knots downwind on our SSE heading, so I’m working on an assumed 20-hour passage.

Peloponnese map of greece
Peloponnese. Credit: Tom Fletcher

Southward bound to the Peloponnese

We start with our shifts as soon as we’re out of the harbour. Three-hour solo watches for the three crew, myself as skipper on the float so I can help when needed. I volunteer to cook for this first passage while everyone settles in, but I’m cheating anyway as it’s a big tray of pre-prepared lasagna to warm in the oven. With the tea flowing and the sails up, it’s hard for anyone to go below and rest, but it’s important to get into the shift routine as soon as possible.

The night passes smoothly, we furl the main at sunset, leaving just the big genoa for the solo crew watches to manage, and still maintain four and a half knots. It’s a clear night with the sparkling lights of the mainland to port and the faint flashing of the Strofades lighthouse keeping us company to starboard. 

The sun rises over the steep cliffs of the island of Sphacteria, guarding Navarino Bay, where the Spartans were cut off and surrounded after the Battle of Pylos in 425BC. Pylos is a pretty town with French architecture and a history littered with conflict. Probably the most famous battle, and the most recent, is that of Navarino in 1827. The last major naval battle to be fought with sailing ships resulted in the destruction of an Ottoman-Egyptian fleet by a combined British-French-Russian fleet commanded by Vice-Admiral Edward Codrington, who is commemorated in Pylos’ central Three Admirals Square. I was glad I had decided to time our entry with the daylight, as the neglected marina was filled with debris and old lazy lines awaiting an unsuspecting propellor! A theme that would continue with the marinas of the Peloponnese.

The high midday sun made the waters of Navarino Bay a bright azure blue. As we motored away from Pylos, I gazed into the water just behind the boat, watching the shafts of sunlight play in our wake. Something square and black swam across my vision and sank away from the hull of boat into the depths. Adrenaline suddenly pumping, I jumped up and knocked the throttle into neutral. I couldn’t figure out what it was, but it had fallen off Tranquilizer. As the boat slowed, I quickly decided I needed to check the rudder and sail drive. Engine off and adrift in the calm bay, I lowered myself down the ladder into the surprisingly cold water and pulled on a scuba mask. On first impression, I couldn’t see anything missing. Thankfully, prop, sail drive, keel and rudder were all still present! I was just about to swim forward of the keel to check the depth sounder and log when I noticed the sail drive gaiter was missing. This is a square of rubber with a hole that sits over the sail drive covering the gap in the hull – mercifully, insignificant enough to not delay our journey!

Rounding the first of Greece’s three Peloponnese ‘fingers’ shortly after gave us a great view of the castle of Methoni and its octagonal ‘Bourtzi’ that protected the harbour. The huge peninsular castle has been occupied for centuries but most of what you can see now is either Venetian or Ottoman, with the octagonal tower belonging to the latter. It marked the start of our second hundred-mile passage which would take us around Cape Maleas to Monemvasia, on the eastern Peloponnese.

A lonely cape

My main concern for this Peloponnese passage was the weather. We would be very exposed around the south of the Greek mainland and in trouble if any southerly storms whipped up. Cape Maleas has a very nasty reputation as the weather systems from the east and west of the Greek mainland converge around its steep cliffs. Ports of refuge are few and far between and involve lengthy detours into either the Gulf of Messina, or the Gulf of Laconia. Large cargo ships are common here, so we had our VHF on dual watch with Ch.13 for bridge-to-bridge communication. The wind in the south was forecast to be light, but the eastern side of the mainland had N4-5, so we expected to encounter some resistance as we rounded Maleas.

Our Greek Waters Pilot identified Elafonisos, a small Peloponnese island just before Cape Maleas, as having sheltered anchorages, so we aimed for the big bay on its southern coast in case we needed to delay rounding the Cape.

A calm night passed slowly, with Tranquilizer only managing 4 knots most of the time. Plenty of marine traffic to watch and strange chatter on Ch.13. As anyone who has listened will know, the late-night watchkeepers on large cargo vessels have strange ways of keeping themselves awake and amused in the small hours! We tried to catch the Greek shipping forecast but, with the crackle from the radio and the Greek accent, were not able to make out any news on the northerly we worried about around the Cape.

At dawn, we found ourselves close to Elafonisos so decided to anchor for breakfast and get a mobile signal to check the forecast. Sand dunes encircled a huge shallow bay with a sandy bottom, a lovely sunny anchorage, and a morning swim was just too tempting! The forecasts were still similar with a northerly force of 4 –5 expected on the eastern side of the cape. Our route to the next harbour in the Peloponnese, Monemvasia, was directly north so we ate a good breakfast and stowed our gear expecting an exciting 20-mile upwind leg.

We left the anchorage and the sunshine behind, with moody cloud above the dark, steep headland ahead. The pilot book had done nothing to calm my nerves, with Heikell telling stories of unpredictable bad weather. Our Greek crew member lightened the mood though, telling us it was traditional to show your bum to the monks at the monastery perched on the cliffs. A cautious couple of miles off the Cape, unfortunately we couldn’t see their reaction!

I was worried for a moment as we rounded the cape; the wind picked up gusting above 30 knots and the sea state deteriorated into a confused choppy mess. Thankfully, our reefed mainsail helped settle the boat while we motored into the wind. After half an hour or so, it started to settle, and the wind eased to just under 20 knots. We unfurled the genoa on a port tack and picked up speed, heading almost exactly northeast.

An hour later, the wind had veered to the northeast, allowing us to set a starboard tack bound directly for Monemvasia, an invigorating 15 miles away. Tranquilizer plowed through the waves at close to 8 knots with one reef in the main, bringing Monemvasia into sight sooner than expected.

Sailing in the Peloponnese region: Gibraltar of the East

The ‘Gibraltar of the East’, as it is known, is a spectacular island fortress founded in the 6th century AD by the descendants of the Spartans, and was, during the Byzantine period, one of the most important cities in the eastern Mediterranean. Joined to the mainland by a narrow shingle causeway, the island’s walled town is a beautiful, car-free labyrinth of winding alleys and beautiful squares overlooking the sea. Above the squares, a steep path snakes its way up to the ruins of the Byzantine upper town. 

Monemvasia
Monemvasia, small rocky peninsula next to Peloponnese with small settlement, located in Greece. View from the town Gefira before sunset, with soft sunlight. Credit: iStock

The marina, with its obligatory stray ropes floating in the water, was as neglected as Pylos. Only a mile away from the causeway, in the modern-day town of Yefira, we at least managed to find a fuel truck and a working tap to refill our water tanks. Alongside the breakwater wall, we decided to explore beautiful Monemvasia and spend the night there.

Departing the following morning, we hugged the shore to get the best view of the old walled town, then set sail headed northeast with 15 knots of northwesterly wind coming down the coast. The morning was bright but cloudy and we had a much shorter day sail to look forward to. We were ahead of schedule due to the straightforward passage around Maleas, and planned to overnight in Hydra and break the last leg to Athens in half. Skirting the Myrtoan Sea took us offshore, a great day sailing with a consistent breeze and Tranquilizer under full sail. 

The wind dropped as we neared Porto Heli, and we had to complete the last 10 miles motoring. I had never been to Hydra and peered ahead eagerly as we approached the harbour, keen to see the famous town. We had, however, forgotten it was May Day. Hydra was rammed! Water taxis and a ferry charged across the harbour entrance, whilst the main yacht quay on the breakwater was awash with fiberglass! I had never seen yachts moored stern-to in front of other yachts moored stern-to! There was a line of 10 or so boats tied to the quay, parked as normal with their anchors out. But in front of them, wedged into the gaps between the bows, and tied to their mid-ship cleats, was another line of 10 yachts with their anchors out. And, believe me or not, another rank in front of them! It was absolute chaos. I turned tail and ran!

Hydra
Credit: Shutterstock

Luckily, Mandraki Bay, a mile east, was a lot more relaxed, with plenty of space to long line from the rocks. A large hotel overlooked the bay, and those crazy water taxis happily picked us up from the yacht and whizzed us past the chaotic harbour to Hydra’s sea front. The car-free town is very pretty, with winding steep alleys, and buzzing cafes and tavernas alive with chic Athenian sailors enjoying the public holiday. The water taxi and the holiday mood may have resulted in one bottle too many at dinner, but we only had another 40 miles to Athens the next day, so didn’t mind a late start.

A refreshing 20 knots of north easterly across the Saronic quickly woke us up, and Tranquilizer leapt through the spray eager to make Athens early. The Saronic, and in particular the TSS off Athens dictates caution though. So many tankers ply the waters to the oil bunkers of Piraeus. Combined with the public holiday leisure traffic, we were kept very busy with the hand bearing compass avoiding racing yachts and commercial traffic alike! 

The Peloponnese to Madness in Athens

I had never been to Athens on a yacht before, and opted for Alimos marina, which I now know was a mistake (and that Flisvos is much more pleasant). Alimos is where most of the charter yachts are based and, as it was a public holiday weekend, it was absolute madness. The first big weekend of the Greek sailing season is not something enjoyable when you are looking for your berth in a huge unfamiliar marina! Thankfully, the wind was light, and we berthed in our spot without difficulty, bringing the first week’s adventure to a close.

marina
Athens. Credit: Shutterstock

Part 2, the return to the Ionian via the Corinth Canal, will feature in next month’s issue.

About the author:

Tom Fletcher is a Lefkas based charter skipper and RYA instructor who has worked for many years for Sail Ionian – during which time he has amassed a huge knowledge of the area.

sailionian.com

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